Any rifle owners or hunters here?

[XLjedi]

I'm looking into buying a hunting rifle... http://www.xl-logic.com/emoticon/rambo.gif

Just wondering if we have any experienced animal hunters among the silent hunters.

[Happy Times]

I'm looking into buying a hunting rifle... http://www.xl-logic.com/emoticon/rambo.gif

Just wondering if we have any experienced animal hunters among the silent hunters.

What are you going to hunt?

[Letum]

Yup, until recently.

Just game birds, rabbits and foxes tho. No big game round here.

I don't have a firearms certificate anymore, but I occasionaly take the air rifle for some
rabbits to cook up.

Are you looking for rifle recomendations?

[XLjedi]

What are you going to hunt?

Logical question...

Figured I'd wait to see if there were any hunters before going into more detail.

I'll mostly be hunting deer and boar... with possibility of larger game in the north at a later time. I think mostly deer though. I might try for an Elk like once. I believe I've already zeroed in on the right caliber. Based on discussions I've already had with other hunters, I think a 30-06 is the chambering I need.

What I've been bouncing back and forth over is: Bolt Action or Semi-Auto?

My current top pick for a bolt action:
Browning "X-Bolt"
(don't know if I should be looking at the A-Bolt instead though)

My Top Picks for a SAR:
Browning BAR "Mk II Longtrac"
(not sure if the "Lightweight" would be better?)

Benelli R1
(interchangeable barrels sounds good, but the Benelli's seem a tad scarce)



My Issues:

From what I've researched, it seems as though the bolt actions are more accurate for longer distances (200+ yds) but will have more kick, and if a second shot is required I might have a harder time reaquiring after cycling the bolt. Bolt action might be easier to clean and maintain due to the simpler design.

The SAR's have reduced accuracy at distance and possibly some loss of inertia due to some gasses being directed at the reload mechanism. The big plus I see with the SAR is 1) reduced kick and 2) easier to reaquire the target. Minuses... more moving parts, harder to clean, possibly being scoffed at by old hacks who don't like SAR's.

Granted, I've seen it repeatedly said, "you only need to be taking one shot to put an animal down" which is, of course, what I would strive for. On the other hand, with the larger 30-06 caliber, and being a new hunter, I'm also weary of developing a "flinch". In which case, although a SAR might be less accurate, I might be more accurate with it. I've also heard the BAR's can be scary accurate both with and without that BOSS system. :hmm:

I've also been leaning toward a stainless steel finish with a composite stock. ...although I haven't been able to find any SAR's in stainless. This will be a "working rifle" rather than a show piece.



Other Factors:

Price is not really an issue.
We can talk scopes after I've picked the right rifle.
Why not ask on a hunting forum? ...eh, I'll get around to it.
Very irritated that the manufacturers don't have better info on their sites!

[Happy Times]

30-06 is ok. I would recommend you take the time and learn to shoot with a bolt action rifle.:) If you want a synthetic stainless rifle and money isnt an issue this is what i would buy.
http://www.berettausa.com/product/spotlight/8_of%20spotlight_SAKO85_FIRSTGROUP.cfm

http://www.sako.fi/

http://www.sako.fi/pdf/specs/85SyntheticSS.pdf

For sights i would go for Zeiss, Swarovski or maybe Schmidt & Bender.

[Sailor Steve]

I have a classic 1903 Springfield, actually built by Remington in September 1942. Got it at a gun show for $60. Bolt action, five shots, fun as all get-out to shoot. I use the original iron sights; wouldn't have it any other way.

The only difference I can see in recoil between bolt and semi-auto is that the latter is heavier. They use the same cartridge. I also don't see why one would be more accurate than the other.

My advice would be to ask around the local stores and see what people say, and see if you can try out everything you're interested in at a shooting range. While I love the Springfield my friend has a heavier M-1 Garand that he swears by. Of course my experience is with the older guns, but I think you'll find that the same is true of modern weapons. The best gun, like the best anything, is the one that suits you; and the only way to find that is try as many as you can.

[XLjedi]

The only difference I can see in recoil between bolt and semi-auto is that the latter is heavier. They use the same cartridge. I also don't see why one would be more accurate than the other.

My advice would be to ask around the local stores and see what people say, and see if you can try out everything you're interested in at a shooting range.

The only difference with regard to accuracy that I could think of was reduced muzzle velocity. Higher velocity maybe fires flatter over long distance? ...seemed logical to me anyway.

Yeah, I'm asking around the forums just to see what folks have to say.

Thanks for the input. If you don't think the recoil difference is an issue; that's useful info. :yep:

[XLjedi]

30-06 is ok. I would recommend you take the time and learn to shoot with a bolt action rifle.:) If you want a synthetic stainless rifle and money isnt an issue this is what i would buy.
http://www.berettausa.com/product/spotlight/8_of%20spotlight_SAKO85_FIRSTGROUP.cfm

http://www.sako.fi/

http://www.sako.fi/pdf/specs/85SyntheticSS.pdf

For sights i would go for Zeiss, Swarovski or maybe Schmidt & Bender.

Interesting, why do you recommend learning to shoot with the bolt action? ...better feel or somfin?

Thanks for the links. I'll have to checkout those when I get home (they firewall anything firearm related at my office. Hmmm... wonder why?).

I was looking at a 3-9 40mm Zeiss Conquest with that Z-system sight thing or whatever they call it.

[les green01]

really depends what your most comfort with and where your hunting at,for deer i ussual hunt in the woods so my 30-30 is use for that.for long range i use a 30-06 or my british 303 but if your hunting in the woods you be better off without a scope or least make sure you can still use your sight with the scope

[Platapus]

Consider this for the quick one shot kill

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M82_Barrett_rifle

Also most suitable for home defense.... assuming that your home is the size of Johor :up:

[Happy Times]

30-06 is ok. I would recommend you take the time and learn to shoot with a bolt action rifle.:) If you want a synthetic stainless rifle and money isnt an issue this is what i would buy.
http://www.berettausa.com/product/spotlight/8_of%20spotlight_SAKO85_FIRSTGROUP.cfm

http://www.sako.fi/

http://www.sako.fi/pdf/specs/85SyntheticSS.pdf

For sights i would go for Zeiss, Swarovski or maybe Schmidt & Bender.

Interesting, why do you recommend learning to shoot with the bolt action? ...better feel or somfin?

Thanks for the links. I'll have to checkout those when I get home (they firewall anything firearm related at my office. Hmmm... wonder why?).

I was looking at a 3-9 40mm Zeiss Conquest with that Z-system sight thing or whatever they call it.

Z-point. Those sound very good, if you put them on top of the SAKO you have a very good package.;)

[XLjedi]

Consider this for the quick one shot kill

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M82_Barrett_rifle

Also most suitable for home defense.... assuming that your home is the size of Johor :up:

Uhhh... yeah.... unfortunately, I had to rule that one out cuz it doesn't come with a 5 round clip.

If you like that sorta thing (ie. military assault weapon), I guess the FN FNAR 7.62 would be your rifle of choice?

[RickC Sniper]

I used to hunt a lot before I became disabled.

A Browning A-bolt is a great rifle but so are those others here that have been recommended.

A bolt action is more reliable, easier to clean, rare to malfunction, and a bit more accurate that a semi-auto. The difference in recoil is minimal if the rifles weigh the same.

As for muzzle velocity they should be the same for either. For slightly more get a longer barrel, shorter barrel will drop muzzle velocity a bit.

I still shoot a Browning 22-250 at varmints (prairie dogs) and I have a Burris scope on it. The Burris is comparable to a Leopold scope in quality. I would recommend this combo to anyone.


Don't let the recoil difference sway you, especially if you get a BOSS system on the barrel. It reduces recoil consideraby.

[XLjedi]

Thanks for the input guys, that helps. At least now I think I can pretty much rule out the SAR's. Bolt-action it is!

So now I've got the following list:

Sako 85
Browning X-Bolt
Weatherby Vanguard Sub-MOAAll offer stainless finish and composite stocks.

Any others I should throw into the mix? I did look briefly at the new Winchester M70 SS but I don't think I'll be able to find one of those inside of the next 6 mos (it's kinda plain lookin too).

[Happy Times]

Thanks for the input guys, that helps. At least now I think I can pretty much rule out the SAR's. Bolt-action it is!

So now I've got the following list:

Sako 85
Browning X-Bolt
Weatherby Vanguard Sub-MOAAll offer stainless finish and composite stocks.

Any others I should throw into the mix? I did look briefly at the new Winchester M70 SS but I don't think I'll be able to find one of those inside of the next 6 mos (it's kinda plain lookin too).

Sauer 202 Outback
Tikka T3 Lite Stainless

[August]

It'd be hard to go wrong with a Remington model 700. I have a left handers version that I am particularly fond of.

[les green01]

actral when it comes to hunting i myself prefere the plain rifles to fancy ones my experiance they going get stratch up bang around main thing is pratice alot that way you wont even notice when it going fire also if you got a sling wrap around your arm it steady you up and the recoil wont be bad,i have seen people shoot with their thumb sticking up lmao they learn quick

[mcf1]

It is difficuly for me to find a rifle. Although I'm right handed, I'm left eye dominant
and I must aim using the left shoulder.
But I own a scoped benelli R1 and because of the scope I don't have problems with aiming
from the right, also own a beretta 92 steel-I pistol.

[LukeFF]

Rifle owner? Oh yes, but this baby doesn't do any shooting:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/LukeFF/100_0685.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/LukeFF/100_0678.jpg

1944 K98, made in Brno. Hardly a ding or scratch on this beauty.

[Platapus]

It'd be hard to go wrong with a Remington model 700. I have a left handers version that I am particularly fond of.

It was good enough for the Army snipers so I guess it is good enough for hunting :up:

[mcf1]

Rifle owner? Oh yes, but this baby doesn't do any shooting:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/LukeFF/100_0685.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/LukeFF/100_0678.jpg

1944 K98, made in Brno. Hardly a ding or scratch on this beauty.

She's a real beauty:up:
My grandfather has got a P08 Luger, His father (my grand grandfather) was a rebell
during the WW2 and took it from a german officer.

[August]

It'd be hard to go wrong with a Remington model 700. I have a left handers version that I am particularly fond of.
It was good enough for the Army snipers so I guess it is good enough for hunting :up:

Yeah and for pretty much the same reasons; Simplicity, Ruggedness and Dependability.

[Platapus]

How much did your lefty cost you?

Even though I am right handed, I shoot rifles left handed. I have been thinking of getting back to rifle shooting.

[August]

How much did your lefty cost you?

Even though I am right handed, I shoot rifles left handed. I have been thinking of getting back to rifle shooting.

About $300. That was back in 1998 tho, it's probably more now.

[bradclark1]

It'd be hard to go wrong with a Remington model 700. I have a left handers version that I am particularly fond of.
Yes, it's still one of the affordable (mid to upper $400 to $2500), good quality, must have rifles. Not bad for a 46 year old. Police sharpshooter is a 700 and both Army, and Marine sniper rifles are based on the 700. Can't get a much better recommendation than that.

[Yahoshua]

Aaronblood, got a few more questions for you:

1. What calibers have you fired before and are comfortable with?
2. Are you a big guy with lots of meat on your shoulders?
3. Have you ever hunted before, or gone on long outdoor camping trips with alot of weight being carried around?
4. Are deer and boar the only animals you plan on hunting for now or do you eventually plan to move up to elk and mountain sheep?


And just and FYI, there are some rifle models you should avoid ie. Remington 710 and a few others which I can't remember right now.

[Radtgaeb]

Hmmm...Remington 700: Always a good decision.

I personally own:
1-Yugoslavian SKS...by far my best and favorite.
2-Yugo. K98...It's actually a different designation, but the name escapes me.
3-New England Arms Pardoner 12g shotgun, for home defense.
4-Hi-point 9mm carbine. A fine home-defense gun, if I do say so.
5-A Black powder/20g Shotgun interchangable Rossi. It's...not the greatest. Then again, muzzleloaders are a b!tch to clean.
6-Mosin/Nagant M44. Just a damn reliable weapon. It'll shoot and shoot and shoot....not awfully accurate, but not so inaccurate that it detracts from it (wear earplugs, though!)
7-Romanian .22 training rifle...my first gun. Still use it to shoot wild tomcats....God knows that the last thing we need in our neighborhood is more cats...

I'm working on assembling an AR-15 as a summer project...

[Hitman]

I own a lot shotguns and two rifles. My father loved to hunt and inherited all shotguns from his relatives -whose sons or daughters didn't like to hunt- so I inherited them all myself :-? I used to hunt with him years ago, but due to not following his hint -learn shotgun first, rifle later- I became proficient only with rifle, and am quite bad with the shotgun :damn:

My .22 rifle is good for hunting rabbits and I even managed to kill a savage dog with it some years ago (My master shot of all times: Straight between the eyes from 150 metres and standing up :huh: will never be able to repeat that :lol: ).

My 30 06 (7.62 mm) has seen way less use, since it is too powerful to shoot at anything else but deers and such, which I don't like to hunt.

If you are planning to have a polivalent weapon, get something with low caliber :up:

[August]

And just and FYI, there are some rifle models you should avoid ie. Remington 710 and a few others which I can't remember right now.

Are you talking about the use of plastic parts in the 710? I read somewhere that Remington fixed that problem.

[Sailor Steve]

My 30 06 (7.62 mm) has seen way less use, since it is too powerful to shoot at anything else but deers and such, which I don't like to hunt.
:rotfl:

I once lived in a converted shop behind a house. One of the guys who lived in the house saw my .30-06 and asked "If you get a burglar, are you going to shoot him with that?" I said "No, that's what the pistol's for. If I shot him with this, it could go through him, through the wall, through your wall, through you, out the other wall and maybe kill someone across the street!"

A bit of an exageration, but not worth finding out how close to the truth it might be.

[XLjedi]

Aaronblood, got a few more questions for you:

1. What calibers have you fired before and are comfortable with?
2. Are you a big guy with lots of meat on your shoulders?
3. Have you ever hunted before, or gone on long outdoor camping trips with alot of weight being carried around?
4. Are deer and boar the only animals you plan on hunting for now or do you eventually plan to move up to elk and mountain sheep?


And just and FYI, there are some rifle models you should avoid ie. Remington 710 and a few others which I can't remember right now.

Haven't fired anything; don't own a rifle. My father-in-law hunts a lot and was first to recommend the 30-06 for the type of hunting we'll be doing.

I'm 5'11" 220-230ish... pick of me on parking duty
http://www.xl-logic.com/avatar/ab.jpg

With the rifle, deer and boar, mostly deer. I don't think I'd want to hunt deer with anything larger than a 30-06. Turkey might also be a possibility, but I'd probably get a shotgun for that. I might venture up to the northern Michigan area... they have Elk up there, but I dunno yet if I want to hunt one. As for the deer... I don't want to be tracking an animal for a half mile after its shot. I just want it to pretty much fall over inside of a 25-50yd radius.

To start; I won't be out longer than 3-4 days at a time. Probably hunting from a tree-stand in the central-Georgia (Macon) area. Hunting camp type place, cabins and so forth. I can't imagine there will be too much hiking and carrying of heavy equipment involved. At least not with the guys I'll be with. I'd have to go out myself or find a new hunting party for something more strenuous.

From what I've heard, come this October-ish timeframe, I'll be sitting with my son in a tree stand looking out over 200-300 yds. and waiting, and looking, and waiting...

If I should decide to go coyote hunting (or some other varmint) out west, maybe then I'll look into one of those para-military semi-autos in a lower caliber.

Let me know if you can remember what rifles (other than the 710) to avoid and perhaps more specifically what traits are worth avoiding.

[Yahoshua]

Just something to keep in mind that since you're a big guy, a larger caliber rifle is going to hurt you alot more to shoot than it will for me.

Reason being is that all the meat in your shoulder is going to be absorbing alot of the kinetic energy of the recoil before your bones do. A slightly smaller guy like me can roll with the punch, but it's just as likely to sit me on my ass after shooting it.

For now a .270 will do you just fine. It doesn't have a whole lot more kick than a .223, but it's not going punish you like a .30-06 would either. Another few points you want to look out for is the length of pull on the rifle, having a rifle with a LOP close to your own measurement will make the rifle more comfortable to shoot.

The Length of Pull is the measurement taken with your shooting arm at a 90 degree angle at the crook of the elbow. You measure from the pad of your trigger finger crooked as if you were about to pull the trigger on a rifle, down to the crook of your elbow. This is your length of pull.

As far as rifles go, you can't go wrong with a Remington 700 action.

Savage has a HORRIBLE factory trigger (lots of creep and play) so if you buy a savage rifle you'd be doing yourself a favor in getting a timney drop-in trigger as a replacement.

Tikka, Kimber, Howa and CZ are also some good rifle manufacturers to look into. Mossberg has a few bolt-action designs on the market but I'm not as familiar with them as I'd like to be.


If you're in a gunshop and you're stuck on what to get, see if you can't talk to the gunsmith that works there for some advice. Keep in mind that what a salesman will tell you and what the service dept. will tell you are two completely different things. So it depends on who you're willing to trust more with your money.

[Yahoshua]

Are you talking about the use of plastic parts in the 710? I read somewhere that Remington fixed that problem.

AFAIK Remington still hasn't fixed the problem with the plastic magazine catch. The magazine catch is moulded as part of the synthetic stock and will eventually break with frequent use. Throw in the fact that the only solution is to order a new $200-odd dollar stock and one quickly realizes that this is an inferior production rifle in comparison to the Remington 700.

If someone else makes an aftermarket stock for the 710 with better quality parts I'd be happy to know about it. Otherwise I need to pawn off my own 710 and use the money for something better.

[XLjedi]

Just something to keep in mind that since you're a big guy, a larger caliber rifle is going to hurt you alot more to shoot than it will for me.

Reason being is that all the meat in your shoulder is going to be absorbing alot of the kinetic energy of the recoil before your bones do. A slightly smaller guy like me can roll with the punch, but it's just as likely to sit me on my ass after shooting it.

For now a .270 will do you just fine. It doesn't have a whole lot more kick than a .223, but it's not going punish you like a .30-06 would either. Another few points you want to look out for is the length of pull on the rifle, having a rifle with a LOP close to your own measurement will make the rifle more comfortable to shoot.

The Length of Pull is the measurement taken with your shooting arm at a 90 degree angle at the crook of the elbow. You measure from the pad of your trigger finger crooked as if you were about to pull the trigger on a rifle, down to the crook of your elbow. This is your length of pull.

As far as rifles go, you can't go wrong with a Remington 700 action.

Savage has a HORRIBLE factory trigger (lots of creep and play) so if you buy a savage rifle you'd be doing yourself a favor in getting a timney drop-in trigger as a replacement.

Tikka, Kimber, Howa and CZ are also some good rifle manufacturers to look into. Mossberg has a few bolt-action designs on the market but I'm not as familiar with them as I'd like to be.


If you're in a gunshop and you're stuck on what to get, see if you can't talk to the gunsmith that works there for some advice. Keep in mind that what a salesman will tell you and what the service dept. will tell you are two completely different things. So it depends on who you're willing to trust more with your money.

Sounds like I'm just going to have to fire a 30-06 and a 270 before I place any orders. The info on LOP is helpful, thanks.

Seems like I'm at least narrowing it down to:

Browning X-bolt
Sako 85
Rem 700
I've heard that Tikka is a budget version Sako... that Kimber has gone down hill in recent years. Savage is definitly out. Not familiar with Howa and CZ. ...and the Browning parts (at least the barrel) are mfgd in Japan.

I also read the Tikka has a plastic clip that costs like $100 to replace. Is that true? ...are all the clips nowadays expensive plastic?

[PeriscopeDepth]

I wanna get a cheap rifle to go plinking with every now and then. The sporting goods stores around here have old Mosin Nagants for $90 usually, Kar98Ks for a little more. Hell, I should probably just have my dad send me a rifle of his. He rarely goes shooting anymore.

PD

[danurve]

I'm looking into buying a hunting rifle... http://www.xl-logic.com/emoticon/rambo.gif

Just wondering if we have any experienced animal hunters among the silent hunters.

What is your intended game?
If you plan to hunt deer/varmint then a .243 or maybe quarter-bore `06 is your ticket for Florida. Factory ammo is not created equal, and consider availability when selecting a cal. The .270 is an excellent cal. I like the .308 myself but that could be a preference for short action bolts.
My shotguns see more field time, I'm into Turkey hunting. I also took the 2006 county opener record whitetail with a plain old smoothbore 12 ga. All Im saying is it doesn't have to get that fancy. If you got silly money then that is another story. Funny thing with the exception of my VLS I spent more money on my PSE then I did on any firearm.

[XLjedi]

What is your intended game?

Animals in North America.


If you plan to hunt deer/varmint then a .243 or maybe quarter-bore `06 is your ticket for Florida. Factory ammo is not created equal, and consider availability when selecting a cal. The .270 is an excellent cal. I like the .308 myself but that could be a preference for short action bolts.

I think I will eventually own at least 3 guns... two rifles and a shotgun. This particular purchase will be the larger bore rifle. I may go with a semi-auto for a smaller caliber at a later time. I'm looking for best accuracy and knockdown power at say 150-300 yds. I doubt I'll be shooting at too much beyond that range. The 06 seemed to be the most proliffic... I assumed it was the easiest to find everywhere and had the most variety in loads.


My shotguns see more field time, I'm into Turkey hunting. I also took the 2006 county opener record whitetail with a plain old smoothbore 12 ga. All Im saying is it doesn't have to get that fancy. If you got silly money then that is another story. Funny thing with the exception of my VLS I spent more money on my PSE then I did on any firearm.

My target budget for rifle and scope is $1500 range. I'm not lookin for a $1k scope and crap rifle... likewise not a great rifle and crap scope. I'm thinking maybe 900-1100 for the rifle and maybe like 400-600 for a scope.

[Yahoshua]

Sounds like I'm just going to have to fire a 30-06 and a 270 before I place any orders. The info on LOP is helpful, thanks.

Seems like I'm at least narrowing it down to:

Browning X-bolt
Sako 85
Rem 700I've heard that Tikka is a budget version Sako... that Kimber has gone down hill in recent years. Savage is definitly out. Not familiar with Howa and CZ. ...and the Browning parts (at least the barrel) are mfgd in Japan.

I also read the Tikka has a plastic clip that costs like $100 to replace. Is that true? ...are all the clips nowadays expensive plastic?


I'll check into that issue with the Tikka rifles, but I need a bit more information than just "clip". Are you talking about the magazine catch or the magazine itself?


As for the Browning X-bolt, I'd hold off on that rifle for another year or so and wait for everyone elses' reviews and experiences with the rifle. It also allows you time to see if there happen to be any manufacturing mistakes that may necessitate a recall (Ruger just recently issued a recall for their SR9 pistol). If time proves this rifle a good choice, then you haven't lsot anything and can pick up a used rifle at a cheaper price.



With the Sako 85 there are a few things I want you to notice but it's nothing really detrimental to the firearm (just a busy-body engineer at work again).

-Sako claims on their website that all their S85 models are free-floated: If this is true you'l want to have the rifle full-length bedded to provide the best accuracy in a hunting environment. That open space between the stock and the barrel allows for dirt, debris, water, kiddys' chewing gum or whatever the hell else will fit in there and will disrupt the barrel harmonics during your course of fire. Free-floating barrels are generally more accurate yes, but only necessary if you're going to try and put every bullet ontop of the last one at a benchrest competition.

-There are seperate safeties for both the bolt and for the trigger: This is going to be a royal pain in the ass if you bother with engaging the bolt lock safety AND the bolt safety every time you handle the firearm, better to just go with the bolt safety and ignore the bolt lock safety altogether.

-Bolt has a tight fit in the raceway: This is a positive point for the rifle in that it's not going to hang up real often IF you keep the bolt and the bolt raceway clean and free of nitty-gritty dirt etc.

-Controlled feeding: Positive aspect as this will help ensure that the cartridge is drawn out of the chamber.

-I also noticed that the S85 is NOT drilled and tapped for scope mounts, so you don't need any scope bases that require any d/t of the receiver. just something to keep in mind.

-Sako claims the S85 has an adjustable trigger. Okay, great. but it doesn't tell me if I can take it apart and put it back together without destroying it. Sometimes a trigger may be factory set at 4 lbs. of pull, but the metal surfaces on the trigger and sear may need some extra polishing to get a nice crisp pull.


And lastly and FYI about wood vs synthetic stocks:

Wood stocks are nice and pretty, but for all intents and purposes, it still alive and breathes moisture just like everything else. Wood will swell in the heat (rifle shoots higher) and shrink in the cold (rifle shoots lower) so you'll have to be aware of that when you sight your rifle in. Wood stocks will also absorb more of the recoil than a synthetic stock will, however, synthetic stocks are LESS influenced by temperature variation than wood stocks.

[August]

My target budget for rifle and scope is $1500 range. I'm not lookin for a $1k scope and crap rifle... likewise not a great rifle and crap scope. I'm thinking maybe 900-1100 for the rifle and maybe like 400-600 for a scope.

That's a lot of money. Unless you're a serious collector anything more than 7-800 for rifle and scope together is a waste of cash.

[XLjedi]

I'll check into that issue with the Tikka rifles, but I need a bit more information than just "clip". Are you talking about the magazine catch or the magazine itself?

Sorry... I meant the magazine itself.


As for the Browning X-bolt, I'd hold off on that rifle for another year or so and wait for everyone elses' reviews and experiences with the rifle. It also allows you time to see if there happen to be any manufacturing mistakes that may necessitate a recall (Ruger just recently issued a recall for their SR9 pistol). If time proves this rifle a good choice, then you haven't lsot anything and can pick up a used rifle at a cheaper price.

I have no intention of buying a used rifle. As I mentioned, cost is not an issue. I'm no collector though. I think the X-bolt is just a continuation of the A-bolt line but with some sort of new X-scope mount or something like that. Seems like if the A-bolt was OK the X is gonna be OK too... but that may just be my misguided notion.

Haven't lost anything? I'd lose time; right? I don't see myself sitting out a season or two waiting to see what happens with the X-bolt. Shoot if I wait that long I'll probably come up with a good reason not to buy one at all! :rotfl:



With the Sako 85 there are a few things I want you to notice but it's nothing really detrimental to the firearm (just a busy-body engineer at work again).

-Sako claims on their website that all their S85 models are free-floated: If this is true you'l want to have the rifle full-length bedded to provide the best accuracy in a hunting environment. That open space between the stock and the barrel allows for dirt, debris, water, kiddys' chewing gum or whatever the hell else will fit in there and will disrupt the barrel harmonics during your course of fire. Free-floating barrels are generally more accurate yes, but only necessary if you're going to try and put every bullet ontop of the last one at a benchrest competition.

-There are seperate safeties for both the bolt and for the trigger: This is going to be a royal pain in the ass if you bother with engaging the bolt lock safety AND the bolt safety every time you handle the firearm, better to just go with the bolt safety and ignore the bolt lock safety altogether.

-Bolt has a tight fit in the raceway: This is a positive point for the rifle in that it's not going to hang up real often IF you keep the bolt and the bolt raceway clean and free of nitty-gritty dirt etc.

-Controlled feeding: Positive aspect as this will help ensure that the cartridge is drawn out of the chamber.

-I also noticed that the S85 is NOT drilled and tapped for scope mounts, so you don't need any scope bases that require any d/t of the receiver. just something to keep in mind.

-Sako claims the S85 has an adjustable trigger. Okay, great. but it doesn't tell me if I can take it apart and put it back together without destroying it. Sometimes a trigger may be factory set at 4 lbs. of pull, but the metal surfaces on the trigger and sear may need some extra polishing to get a nice crisp pull.

Thanks, that's helpful info. Not crazy bout the idea of space between the barrel and stock. I can foresee mine getting a tad grimey...

When you say "not drilled" does that mean I have to do something special to alter the rifle to accept a scope? I definitely don't want to be drilling on the thing! It needs to be scope-ready in one way or another.


And lastly and FYI about wood vs synthetic stocks:

Wood stocks are nice and pretty, but for all intents and purposes, it still alive and breathes moisture just like everything else. Wood will swell in the heat (rifle shoots higher) and shrink in the cold (rifle shoots lower) so you'll have to be aware of that when you sight your rifle in. Wood stocks will also absorb more of the recoil than a synthetic stock will, however, synthetic stocks are LESS influenced by temperature variation than wood stocks.

Yeah, I'm aware of the wood stock issues. I'm looking for stainless steel with a composite stock.

I dunno now about the Sako... :doh:

One thing I've definitely decided is not to decide too quickly!

[XLjedi]

My target budget for rifle and scope is $1500 range. I'm not lookin for a $1k scope and crap rifle... likewise not a great rifle and crap scope. I'm thinking maybe 900-1100 for the rifle and maybe like 400-600 for a scope.

That's a lot of money. Unless you're a serious collector anything more than 7-800 for rifle and scope together is a waste of cash.

What combination then would you recommend in the 7-800 range?

Somehow I doubt I'll want it... I could just use my bow to hit something in the 20yd range.

Am I totally out in left field? Is it really crazy to pay $1500?

[August]

What combination then would you recommend in the 7-800 range?

Somehow I doubt I'll want it... I could just use my bow to hit something in the 20yd range.

Am I totally out in left field? Is it really crazy to pay $1500?

"20yd range" that's funny.

Hey spend whatever you want. Some people spend a hundred grand on a car and think nothing of it. The fact that a person could find a car that does everything they want it to do for less than half that doesn't mean squat if ones heart is set on it.

I'm just saying that since this is your first firearm you might consider not spending top dollar. Whatever it is, guns, motorcycles, scuba gear, etc, it's usually a good practice to get a starter setup before diving into anything new whole hog. Make your newbie mistakes on something you can afford to replace if you break it, or decide it's not for you (it happens) and just as importantly give yourself some time to get familiar with the sport and learn a thing or two. You'll save yourself a lot of money and flustration in the long run.

A 30-06 Remington model 700 is a good sturdy firearm that will provide decades of fine service and will be accurate out to 800 yards with is plenty far for just about anywhere but especially Florida. Brand spanking new that'll cost ya around 4-500 bucks.

Spend about $300-400 on a decent scope. There's several great suggestions in this thread but it's difficult to screw up if you just ask around a bit. Again ,you can spend stupid amounts of money on scopes. You just gotta decide whether you want a Lamborghini or an Audi.

Whatever you do decide also spend another $200 or so on some decent accessories like a good laser bore sighting device. I have a set from Cabelas that look like bullets. They're great for checking zero in the field without having to fire the weapon and scare the game away.

Oh and of course get a good locking hardsided case that will fit the rifle with the scope mounted, preferably one that is airline certified.

[XLjedi]

What combination then would you recommend in the 7-800 range?

Somehow I doubt I'll want it... I could just use my bow to hit something in the 20yd range.

Am I totally out in left field? Is it really crazy to pay $1500?

"20yd range" that's funny.

Hey spend whatever you want. Some people spend a hundred grand on a car and think nothing of it. The fact that a person could find a car that does everything they want it to do for less than half that doesn't mean squat if ones heart is set on it.

I'm just saying that since this is your first firearm you might consider not spending top dollar. Whatever it is, guns, motorcycles, scuba gear, etc, it's usually a good practice to get a starter setup before diving into anything new whole hog. Make your newbie mistakes on something you can afford to replace if you break it, or decide it's not for you (it happens) and just as importantly give yourself some time to get familiar with the sport and learn a thing or two. You'll save yourself a lot of money and flustration in the long run.

A 30-06 Remington model 700 is a good sturdy firearm that will provide decades of fine service and will be accurate out to 800 yards with is plenty far for just about anywhere but especially Florida. Brand spanking new that'll cost ya around 4-500 bucks.

Spend about $300-400 on a decent scope. There's several great suggestions in this thread but it's difficult to screw up if you just ask around a bit. Again ,you can spend stupid amounts of money on scopes. You just gotta decide whether you want a Lamborghini or an Audi.

Whatever you do decide also spend another $200 or so on some decent accessories like a good laser bore sighting device. I have a set from Cabelas that look like bullets. They're great for checking zero in the field without having to fire the weapon and scare the game away.

Oh and of course get a good locking hardsided case that will fit the rifle with the scope mounted, preferably one that is airline certified.

Didn't mean to sound like a wise-@$$, I hear what you're sayin. I'm not really in the Ferrari budget category... more like a Corvette.

Those accessories sound like a must, good advice. :yep: I hadn't even thought about a laser bore sighting device. I'll probably need some stuff for cleaning and so forth too...

That all seems very reasonable to me, I was expecting the scope to be in the $300-400 range.

I guess I didn't realize the Remington's were that much cheaper? :huh:

What do you all think of these?
Remington Model 700 XCR (http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire_rifles/model_700/model_700_XCR.asp) (I assume there's a 30-06 version?)
Zeiss Conquest 3-9 40mm

...or is the Zeiss too pricey?

[Ducimus]

For Boar, id recommend a Ruger 44 magnum carbine. At least out west where we have alot of mountains and brush. As i understand theres various models. The one i used to hunt with had to shoot a magnum load or the action didn't cycle properly. 5 shot tube magazine, with 1 in the pipe. Loaded via a gate at the bottom of the action like a shotgun. This carbine is light weight, short enough that it makes a great brush gun, and the firepower is enough to drop most anything into the dirt. Regardless, any shot id take at a boar, would be preferbly from the side into the heart lung area. Any shot near that tough gristle/ armor padding on their chest isn't a good one in my opinion.

[August]

What do you all think of these?
Remington Model 700 XCR (http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire_rifles/model_700/model_700_XCR.asp) (I assume there's a 30-06 version?)
Zeiss Conquest 3-9 40mm

...or is the Zeiss too pricey?
If you're gonna spend a grand on a rifle then $500 for a scope is not unreasonable. I'd still go with the regular 700 version though. If you get that scope you can always reuse it if you upgrade the rifle in a couple years.

[XLjedi]

If you're gonna spend a grand on a rifle then $500 for a scope is not unreasonable. I'd still go with the regular 700 version though. If you get that scope you can always reuse it if you upgrade the rifle in a couple years.

Well, so I thought. But you seemed to think that was way too much. Does the XCR 700 run closer to $1000?

Why do you say that part in yellow? ...is it the cost?

That's the thing... I'd hate spending more money in a year to buy another big bore rilfle. Why do you think I might want to upgrade if I got a regular 700?

[Yahoshua]

I have no intention of buying a used rifle. As I mentioned, cost is not an issue. I'm no collector though. I think the X-bolt is just a continuation of the A-bolt line but with some sort of new X-scope mount or something like that. Seems like if the A-bolt was OK the X is gonna be OK too... but that may just be my misguided notion.

Haven't lost anything? I'd lose time; right? I don't see myself sitting out a season or two waiting to see what happens with the X-bolt. Shoot if I wait that long I'll probably come up with a good reason not to buy one at all! :rotfl:

I could make a similar comparison with the Remington 700 and the Remington 710. Just because the 700 is a wonderful action doesn't mean that the 710 will be just as flawless.

And by "losing" anything I mean by spending money on a rifle where you beleived what the salesman told you and then found out it has a couple of kinks in the works. After about a year or so any kinks the product might have will be noted and worked out, or it may mean that the rifle is best avoided.

Lastly, a used rifle, provided the barrel is in like-new condition, can be a bargain buy if you know what to look for. I've seen some rifles come through the shop to be sold that people didn't want for whatever reason and they decide to sell it after shooting only about 100 rounds through the barrel.

This is equivalent to buying a brand new car, putting 10,000 miles on it and then deciding to sell it off because you don't like something about it. The next buyer gets the bargain.



When you say "not drilled" does that mean I have to do something special to alter the rifle to accept a scope? I definitely don't want to be drilling on the thing! It needs to be scope-ready in one way or another.


Most factory rifles have the receiver drilled and tapped in 4 places (2 spots on the front half, 2 spots on the rear half) to mate with a scope base. Other manufacturers have a "picatinny" style mount system where instead of drilling and tapping the receiver, they make angled cuts on the side that is similar to that of the picatinny rail. So you'll need to get a scope base that clamps on the rail, not one that requires a drilled and tapped receiver.

*For future reference, please don't attempt to drill and tap the receiver yourself if you ever decide to change the scope base style.

[XLjedi]

I could make a similar comparison with the Remington 700 and the Remington 710. Just because the 700 is a wonderful action doesn't mean that the 710 will be just as flawless.


Mmmm... perhaps a good reason to favor the 700 over the X-bolt then; a proven design. ...or maybe stick to the A-bolt.

Thanks for all the excellent input and explanations!

[antikristuseke]

The only difference I can see in recoil between bolt and semi-auto is that the latter is heavier. They use the same cartridge. I also don't see why one would be more accurate than the other.

Im not usre that someone else has answered this allready, but here goes. It is to do with the barrel harmonics. Every time a shot is fired the barrel vibrates, the less touching it the better since it will allways vibrate the same way giving your bullets a more predictable path, thats why a free floating (barrel only comes into contact with anything at the breach) barrel is preferable for sharpshooting. With gas operated semi automatic rifles this is not possible since there is need for a gas take off point to cycle the action and in some rifles the actiopn begins to cycle before the first roun has left the barrel causing more vibration possibly altering the course of the round.

[August]

Well, so I thought. But you seemed to think that was way too much. Does the XCR 700 run closer to $1000?

Why do you say that part in yellow? ...is it the cost?

That's the thing... I'd hate spending more money in a year to buy another big bore rilfle. Why do you think I might want to upgrade if I got a regular 700?

Yeah, I looked up the price of the XCR it runs around a grand. The regular 700 runs about half that.

Re upgrade. Actually I think you'll be quite happy with the regular 700 but I don't know you well enough to tell whether you will become a real affectionado.

[Yahoshua]

Every time a shot is fired the barrel vibrates, the less touching it the better since it will allways vibrate the same way giving your bullets a more predictable path, thats why a free floating (barrel only comes into contact with anything at the breach) barrel is preferable for sharpshooting. With gas operated semi automatic rifles this is not possible since there is need for a gas take off point to cycle the action and in some rifles the actiopn begins to cycle before the first roun has left the barrel causing more vibration possibly altering the course of the round.

The heart of this matter is consistency, however you are correct in principle. The barrel must either be consistently touching the surface of the stock during firing, or nothing at all (best arrangement). USMC snipers have their rifles fully bedded with marine-tex while most target shooters have their rifles free-floated. The only difference between the two arrangements is the purpose of their setup.

As for gas-operated firearms it depends on a number of other variables that must fall into place and function correctly to attain excellent accuracy, but I've run out of time and have to go to work now......

[Yahoshua]

Now that I'm back....

AFAIK Tikka has had no such problems with the magazine. And I was talking about your situation with my co-worker and his advice on the Browning A-bolt is to forget about it and go for something else as the A-bolt has some design flaws with the bolt and trigger assembly (I forget all the deatils but I got the gist of it), but they're manufactured with excellent barrel quality.

Also, Remington came out with the 770 this year and knowing that it's a design meant to correct the flaws of the 710, I'd avoid this rifle for a year and wait to see how it turns out.

And I looked around for rifles that would best suit your needs and what you intend to use it for. We have a couple of rifles in the shop where I work that can fill your bill, and another that we could order (unless you find somebody local that has the rifle in stock).

What we have in the shop are:

-Winchester Model 70 chambered in .270 Winchester, used rifle it's about 1/3 of it's way through it's barrel life and just seems like it needs a bit of cleaning up. This rifle already has a redfield scope mounted on it, leather sling, wood stock, and it's a GREAT deal at $440.

My only beef with the Winchester Mod. 70 is that while they were first produced, they had the best trigger and bolt safety on the market but not much else on the gun was very impressive. However, If you like it, great, if you don't then you could turn it around and sell it again or give it away to a relative.

-Savage 111 chambered in .270 Winchester. Synthetic stock with factory installed scope. Brand new at $524.95.

-Mossberg 100 ATR, nylon padded sling, has scope bases installed but no scope. Used, but in "like-new" condition and is selling for $275.

What we don't have but one I would reccommend you look around for would be a Remington 798 chambered in .270 Winchester. We can order one from our distributor at $500 (retail price).

If you aren't comfortable with the above choices, Tikka and Sako both make good rifles so long as you understand what you're getting.

[XLjedi]

AFAIK Tikka has had no such problems with the magazine.

Here's the review I saw on the Tikka T3 Lite that mentioned the $100 plastic clip. Just wondered if that's common...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGq3hxZPSXg



And I was talking about your situation with my co-worker and his advice on the Browning A-bolt is to forget about it and go for something else as the A-bolt has some design flaws with the bolt and trigger assembly (I forget all the deatils but I got the gist of it), but they're manufactured with excellent barrel quality.

Also, Remington came out with the 770 this year and knowing that it's a design meant to correct the flaws of the 710, I'd avoid this rifle for a year and wait to see how it turns out..

Thanks for asking... I'll stay away from the 710 and 770. First I've heard anyone say anything about avoiding an A-bolt.



And I looked around for rifles that would best suit your needs and what you intend to use it for. We have a couple of rifles in the shop where I work that can fill your bill, and another that we could order (unless you find somebody local that has the rifle in stock).

What we have in the shop are:

-Winchester Model 70 chambered in .270 Winchester, used rifle it's about 1/3 of it's way through it's barrel life and just seems like it needs a bit of cleaning up. This rifle already has a redfield scope mounted on it, leather sling, wood stock, and it's a GREAT deal at $440.

My only beef with the Winchester Mod. 70 is that while they were first produced, they had the best trigger and bolt safety on the market but not much else on the gun was very impressive. However, If you like it, great, if you don't then you could turn it around and sell it again or give it away to a relative.

-Savage 111 chambered in .270 Winchester. Synthetic stock with factory installed scope. Brand new at $524.95.

-Mossberg 100 ATR, nylon padded sling, has scope bases installed but no scope. Used, but in "like-new" condition and is selling for $275.

What we don't have but one I would reccommend you look around for would be a Remington 798 chambered in .270 Winchester. We can order one from our distributor at $500 (retail price).

If you aren't comfortable with the above choices, Tikka and Sako both make good rifles so long as you understand what you're getting.

Not interested... but appreciate the fact that you took the time to check and post the info. What exactly is "dura-wood" (mossberg) anyway? I think of all those, I'll probably keep the 798 in the back of my mind though. ;)

My requirements (if I hadn't already mentioned):

not used
stainless steel
composite stock
30-06Factors influencing those requirements. I live in S. Florida; high humidity, 3 miles from the ocean. Salt corrosion and rust is a concern.

I haven't had good experiences buying used things. I always find some reason to regret it. Just not going to do that anymore.

My father-in-law doesn't have a 30-06; he's already got 270's. He'll buy mine if I decide I don't want it, besides the 06 is ubiquitous. Somethin's been around for over a century... must've done something right.

I think my top 2 at the moment are:

Remington 700 XCR
Browning X-Bolt SSStill open to opinions... I've got a thread going now on the HuntingNet forum where I asked folks if they'd buy stainless (http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2790259). You all have at least given me enough info where I can not feel too newbly on a hunter's forum.

Thanks for the input! :up:

[Yahoshua]

Ah.....k At least you can say you learned something from it all right?

As for the A-bolt it's something I mentioned before in the differences in what the salesman will tell you and what the service dept. says. You guys (customers) get to play with rifles when they work, we have to play with them when they're broken. So if it isn't fun to fix or it's something I know is hard to get parts for I don't really want it.

I read up on the forum post a bit and one of the guys has a good suggestion which is to cerakote the rifle after you get it (assuming you like it and intend to keep it that is). This will add an additional layer of rust-protection onto the rifle.

Have fun and be safe.

[XLjedi]

Ah.....k At least you can say you learned something from it all right?

Indeed, most helpful!


As for the A-bolt it's something I mentioned before in the differences in what the salesman will tell you and what the service dept. says. You guys (customers) get to play with rifles when they work, we have to play with them when they're broken. So if it isn't fun to fix or it's something I know is hard to get parts for I
don't really want it.

Haven't spoken with a single salesperson actually; just been listening to what hunters say, reading and watching reviews, skimming the forums and so forth. Can't imagine how people ever bought things without Google.

I can't seem to find anyone who can really knock the M700. Definitely a good number of Browning fans out there too though... the only other negative I heard about Browning was from one guy who just didn't like "Made in Japan" stamped on his barrel.



I read up on the forum post a bit and one of the guys has a good suggestion which is to cerakote the rifle after you get it (assuming you like it and intend to keep it that is). This will add an additional layer of rust-protection onto the rifle.

Have fun and be safe.

I'll look into the cerakote, thanks for your suggestions and insight. :know:

[XLjedi]

What we don't have but one I would reccommend you look around for would be a Remington 798 chambered in .270 Winchester. We can order one from our distributor at $500 (retail price).

...now you've got me off researching the 98 Mauser. Is the Remington 798 the only modern Mauser rifle?

What exactly makes the Mauser action so special? Seems like a lot of folks go out of their way to convert old surplus military Mausers to sporting rifles just for this action.

[Yahoshua]

Yes, the Remington 798 is a copy of the Mauser style action. So is the Springfield 1903, the Remington 700, Sako 75, Sako 85, Winchester model 70 and a whole lot of other manufacturers as well. So the short answer is no, it's not the only "modern mauser". In fact, the Mauserwerke company still produces mausers for the civilian market:

http://www.mauserwaffen.de/Rifles.61.0.html?&L=1

The Mauser action is a simple, effective, and proven design that is very flexible. If quality steel is used and the action is properly made it will practically last forever even with heavy use and multiple rebarreling so long as it's taken care of. It is also the benchmark against which all other bolt-action rifles in existence are meausured against in the firearms industry.

But the main differences between the different manufacturers are the little details of whatever cosmetic changes they made to the bolt sleeve, the action, or introduced their own trigger etc. But also in the quality of the materials they put into making the rifle (planned obsolescence). Some manufacturers design their rifles for that "deer season only" hunter who will take their rifle out of the closet during hunting season and then leave it back in the closet for the rest of the year. Those rifles are not quality guns and aren't meant to be kept alive after a period of time.

As for sporterizing Mausers, it's alot like taking an old car and putting a new coat of paint on it and doing a body job. It's all cosmetic and IMO it's a waste of my time and the customers' money. If people want to pay big bucks to sporterize an old mauser I'll do it, but not before doing my damndest to try and talk them out of it and try to convince them to spend their money on a "modern" mauser rather than do a facelift for the old one.

[XLjedi]

So is "Bolt Action" and "Mauser Action" one-in-the-same then?

[Yahoshua]

Bolt action is a type of action design. Bolt action as opposed to gas-operated semi-autos, recoil-operated semi-autos, break-opens, and pump actions.

The Mauser action refers to that specific design of bolt action which all modern bolt-actions are based off of, but with cosmetic changes, differences in quality, and some other integral parts that may be changed is what we end up with from other manufacturers. Some designs are quite ingenous, others are the same package with a different label.

To simplify it best it's like taking an Oreo cookie, making the sandwich brown and the filling green and stamping "chips ahoy" on the packaging and may taste horrible when compared to an original oreo. It's still an oreo but produced by a different company.

[XLjedi]

Man this is like the hardest thing I've ever had to buy! It didn't take me this long to buy a house or any of my vehicles.

Usually, when I jump into a new hobby (my wife says I have too many BTW) I just investigate it for like a week or two and figure out which companies make the best stuff research a little and buy it.

But when it comes to rifles...

Let's put aside for a moment the fact that there is no perfect caliber for all hunting... and just try to focus on who makes the best quality rifle.

It seems like a lot are good, none are perfect...

If you like the Browning's you guys have said the A-bolts have design flaws. Some talk bad about Savage and yet Chuck Hawks says Savage has the best trigger ever made (although you mentioned it was horrible). The Remington's don't look quite as nice, but seem to be a good dependable model. Ruger M77 Mark 2 is mentioned to be one of the finest bolt action rifles ever produced... and yet it has a total crap trigger and the laminate stock on the stainless model makes me want to vomit. Tikkas have plastic parts... Kimber is a crap shoot... Weatherby

Oh, speaking of the stock. I decided I like walnut now. On the one hand, wood "breathes" and can cause your aim to be slightly high or low, depending on heat and relative humidity. On the other hand, synthetics are not as rigid as wood and therefore can flex, also throwing off aim. The synthetics are tough against the elements and downright painful on the eyes. Wood looks great, but maybe can't take as much environmental abuse? I think I'm leaning more toward the wood now after reading the Chuck Hawks commentary... but there aren't too many stainless models with walnut stocks. At least not a satin or oil finished walnut stock. I couldn't use one of those hi-gloss models... I'm just to hard on equipment.

For whatever reason it's nearly impossible to find the rifle I want, in the caliber I want, from the manufacturer that I want, that has all the right pieces and made from the stuff I want.

I need like a Browning X-bolt Hunter with a satin walnut stock and stainless steel... in a 30-06. ...and hopefully the new X-bolt is cured of whatever ailments you guys noticed in the A-bolt. Is that too much to ask? :doh:

Ah well, gimme another week and I'll probably be looking at AR-15's.

I guess short of building something custom, I'm just gonna have to compromise...

I think I'm down to the Browning. One of these two:
X-Bolt Hunter, walnut/blue steel (I like the looks of this one best)
X-Bolt Stalker, synth/stainless (I probably need this one though)

Maybe I can get away with the blued steel if I put that coating on it you mentioned?

[Hylander_1314]

I like my M-1 Garand for deer and elk. I also have a 1917 Eddystone bolt action that I will take as a backup, or if I want a lighter rifle in the mountainous terrain.

[August]

I like my M-1 Garand for deer and elk. I also have a 1917 Eddystone bolt action that I will take as a backup, or if I want a lighter rifle in the mountainous terrain.

How do you do to limit the amount of rounds you can carry in the magazine to keep within hunting rules?

With my .12ga it's just a wooden dowel that keeps me from loading more than three rounds but the Garand has that 8 round clip.

[Sailor Steve]

...but the Garand has that 8 round clip.
When I was in boot camp we trained on the Garand, but they didn't let us use the stripper clip. I seem to remember having to load it by hand, but it's been a very long time. Could ones used for hunting have a 5-round limit?

[RickC Sniper]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahoshua
And I was talking about your situation with my co-worker and his advice on the Browning A-bolt is to forget about it and go for something else as the A-bolt has some design flaws with the bolt and trigger assembly (I forget all the deatils but I got the gist of it), but they're manufactured with excellent barrel quality.
================================================== ====

Don't be trash talking my A-bolt without some documentation. :p I know a co-worker who knows somebody who says it is a flawed system doesn't work for me.:arrgh!:

My A-bolt is a great rifle and a tack-driver. I wouldn't sell it for 4 times what I paid for it. Rifle owners tend to be biased for or against something just the way car owners are.

@AAronblood:
The best piece of advice you got here was to find a way to go shoot a rifle or two before you buy. Find a decent quality 30-06 and go shoot it. Find somethIng as close to what you are planning on buying as you can. Make your purchasing decisions after that, not before. You really owe it to yourself to do this.

Have fun. Shooting is a great sport.:up:

[XLjedi]

The best piece of advice you got here was to find a way to go shoot a rifle or two before you buy. Find a decent quality 30-06 and go shoot it. Find somethIng as close to what you are planning on buying as you can. Make your purchasing decisions after that, not before. You really owe it to yourself to do this.

Yeah... I know, I just don't have any friends with rifles. http://www.xl-logic.com/emoticon/crymore.gif

I guess I'll have to resort to asking my dad, to ask some of his police buddies who hunt, "Hey will you let my son shoot your rifles." Probably would've been acceptable when I was like 19... now that I'm 38 it's just kinda humiliating. :nope:

I've been trying to locate a place where maybe I can rent one or somethin... does such a thing exist? I know there's a Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World place down in Ft. Lauderdale. They have an indoor range, but not sure if they would allow you to just shoot some of their rifles.

[RickC Sniper]

I guess I'll have to resort to asking my dad, to ask some of his police buddies who hunt, "Hey will you let my son shoot your rifles."


That is actually a good idea. Hunters generally support other hunters and the shooting sports, and should be open to that. If that does not work out you said money was no object, so consider purchasing a used 30-06 and taking it to a range to put a couple boxes of shells through it. You would, if nothing else, learn whether your choice of caliber is a good one. Getting familiar with a borrowed or inexpensive rifle or two at the range will also help you in deciding what to purchase.

[Yahoshua]

Quote:
Don't be trash talking my A-bolt without some documentation. :p I know a co-worker who knows somebody who says it is a flawed system doesn't work for me.:arrgh!:

My A-bolt is a great rifle and a tack-driver. I wouldn't sell it for 4 times what I paid for it. Rifle owners tend to be biased for or against something just the way car owners are.


For the record, I'm a trained gunsmith with 14 months of training and about 6 months of real-world experience under my belt (for whatever it counts for). And my co-worker is also a trained gunsmith with 20 years of experience under his belt. So if he tells me that one model of rifle is a pain in the ass to fix than another or has certain design flaws I would want to avoid then I'm going to listen to him.

Not only that, but any firerms I own I get to fix, so why would I want to buy a rifle that will have a couple of design flaws that I'm leery about, is a bit difficult to acquire parts for, and is a pain in the ass to fix much less reccommend that somebody else buy that same rifle?

I don't doubt that your rifle is manufactured with some qaulity parts but that doesn't change the fact that it's flawed and sometimes difficult to fix. If you want documentation or quotations about the A-bolts' flaws I can get it to you by tuesday.

[Yahoshua]

I guess I'll have to resort to asking my dad, to ask some of his police buddies who hunt, "Hey will you let my son shoot your rifles." Probably would've been acceptable when I was like 19... now that I'm 38 it's just kinda humiliating. :nope:

I've been trying to locate a place where maybe I can rent one or somethin... does such a thing exist? I know there's a Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World place down in Ft. Lauderdale. They have an indoor range, but not sure if they would allow you to just shoot some of their rifles.

Google or ask around at local shops to see if anyone near you rents out guns, and basically call every shop in town until you've gone through all the shops or until you find out who rents guns.

As for borrowing guns to shoot from a buddy, there's no shame in doing it. And in fact it can be quite fun, you get to shoot some other guys' gun to see how you like it and you get to burn up his ammo while doing it!! It's a win-win situation.

[August]

Joining the local sportsmans or rod and gun club might be a good idea as well. Not only do you get plenty of opportunities to compare notes with other gun owners including registered NRA firearms instructors, you get a place to shoot.

[XLjedi]

Joining the local sportsmans or rod and gun club might be a good idea as well. Not only do you get plenty of opportunities to compare notes with other gun owners including registered NRA firearms instructors, you get a place to shoot.

That's a good suggestion... I'll have to poke around and see what we have locally.

Also, can any of you recommend some good hunting forums?

I've tried the one here: HuntingNet (http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/default.aspx)
...but it's total crap (the forum implementation that is) they don't even have a User CP to track threads! :down:

Of course, you can't tell if a User CP exists on a forum until you register, and I hate wasting my time registering across a bunch of forums I'll never post to.