[REL] Kriegsmarine Wiz-Wheel templates released!

[Hitman]

UPDATED TO THE 2.0 VERSION OF THE FRONT SIDE, MAY 17TH 2012:

http://www.mediafire.com/?mymjni5unxw

YOU STILL NEED THE OLD TEMPLATES IF YOU WANT THE REAR (NOT HISTORICAL) OF THE WHEEL.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK, here are two packs with the templates to build the german wiz wheel for the use with SH3. Thanks again to Don1reed for his picture of the real thing:up:

UPDATED to 1.1 Speed Error fixed thanks to Puster Bill.

You only need one of the packs but there are two because one comes with the swastika below the KM eagle, and the other with the german cross instead:

HISTORICAL:

http://files.filefront.com/KM_Wiz_wheel_11_SWRAR/;7493075;/fileinfo.html

NO SWASTIKA:

http://files.filefront.com/KM_Wiz_wheel_11_NO_SWRAR/;7493028;/fileinfo.html

HOTFIX:

http://files.filefront.com/WIZ_WHEEL_HOTFIXrar/;7493008;/fileinfo.html

Link to my filefront page, in case the above do not work:

http://hosted.filefront.com/HitmanPacificAc

Now you have something to keep you busy this next weekend. When I have rested a bit I might post some images of how it works, though it is pretty easy to figure out if you read the thread about the US MK3 wiz-wheel.

Enjoy:|\\

[Spytrx]

good stuff, thank you

[danlisa]

http://www.romani-online.co.uk/modules/smiletag/images/smilies/77.gif Thank You.:rock::rock:

[Sailor Steve]

Cool stufff! Thanks, Your Honor.:rock:

[joea]

Yea for Hitman!!!:cool:

[Jimbuna]

Danke :arrgh!:

[gabeeg]

Very slick, thank you!

[mr chris]

Thanks very much Hitman. Now i can try and figure out manual Tdc.:up::rock:

[_Seth_]

Nice one, mate! Thanx for the work and time you have put into this! :up::up:

[HunterICX]

:up: Nice piece of work mate,

Keep them coming :rock:

[Rubini]

Many thanks Hitman!

Awesome work!
A must for everyone!:up:

PS: ´what is the "Simplified_Manual_Targeti0.rar" that I found in your Filefront acount?
And i´m having a little trouble to download from filefront: no servers available...(only me?)

[FIREWALL]

THX Hitman
Am building it right now. Will get back to you all with a pic
how it turned out. This is going to be fun.:D

[Hitman]

Thanks guys :up: My pleasure to spend some time doing anything useful for such thankful people:up:

Am building it right now. Will get back to you all with a pic
how it turned out. This is going to be fun.:D

Yes I would like to know that it can be correctly built, not just by me. Unlike the US MK3 tool, this should fit well since I did both sides:hmm:

PS: ´what is the "Simplified_Manual_Targeti0.rar" that I found in your Filefront acount?

A tutorial for manual targeting at 100% realism in SH4. It is in fact useful for SH3 as almost all concepts can be directly translated to SH3, but I had thought of doing somewhen a version specifically for SH3. Must however be put on the "to do" list for some time :88)

[Puster Bill]

Bravo, Excellent job Hitman. It will be a few days before I can build one. I have to at a minimum get some more lamination (I have the cardstock and transparencies already). Plus, I'd like to pick up a color ink cartridge for my printer, as you did a beautiful job color-wise. In the mean time, I'm actually hitting ships with the linear rules, amazingly enough. Can't wait to try yours, though.


:up::rock::D , and any other approving smiley!

[Alyebard]

HIP, HIP, HURRAAA!:up:

[Vacillator]

Thanks Hitman, something to keep me busy tonight ;)

EDIT: Just had a quick look. That's a nice piece of work!

[SteveW1]

Thank You Sir, You are a legend:rock:
And it will keep me busy this weekend

[Alex]

And i´m having a little trouble to download from filefront: no servers available...(only me?)

I've packed them in one file for you, mate, just download KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman from here, hopefully your cpu can download it from rapidshare :

http://rapidshare.com/files/30695272/KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman.ra r.html

[Rubini]

And i´m having a little trouble to download from filefront: no servers available...(only me?)

I've packed them in one file for you, mate, just download KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman from here, hopefully your cpu can download it from rapidshare :

http://rapidshare.com/files/30695272/KM_wiz_wheel_and_sh4_manual_targeting_by_Hitman.ra r.html

Thanks Alex!
A cut and paste weekend ahead! :D

[bruschi sauro]

TKS HITMAN WELL DONE JOB MATE:::::rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

[Maraz]

Great job!
I will make two separated wheels, the first one (rear one) is already done!

Thanks
Maraz

[GoldenRivet]

great work hitman... now whats the trick to printing out the transparancies without having the ink smear so easily?

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other or should these two move freely of one another?

[Puster Bill]

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other or should these two move freely of one another?

Yes!

I've found in building a couple of these types of things that it really doesn't matter.

My preference is to laminate the two biggest wheels together back to back. I don't use glue, as I always seem to get wrinkles.

[GoldenRivet]

as i searched the store for laminating sheets, i thought to myself that laminating them together would be the best idea vs. using glue.

Im trying to figure out though what the best method to use might be for placing the transparant images on actual transparancy sheets.

[Hitman]

also should the larger wheel of the front be glued to the larger wheel of the back as if one were printed on the back of the other

Exactly that:up:

[GoldenRivet]

got a users guide?

I use slide rules regularly, but one has to know what each of the "scales" represents in order to effectively use the device. i picture tutorial would be great, but a written tutorial would be quite sufficient.

[Puster Bill]

OK, I built the back side of the KM whiz wheel, and while fiddling with it I noticed a possible issue.

If you align the index on the small wheel (the red line) with 1 knot, it lands on 5400 meters.

The conversion from meters to knots is approximately .515, so unless my thinking is incorrect, it should land on 5150 meters.

When I checked the backside of my American whiz wheel, if you align the index on 1 knot you will hit just a hair over 5600, which is correct, the conversion from yards to knots is about .56.

I will say that there is a caveat: I haven't had the chance to try it in the game yet. I don't know if it will cause a miss.

One way to fix that problem would be to align the transparent pointer with the mark just past the "16 minute" mark on the inner wheel.

I'm going to try it as-is, and see if it works. If it does, no big deal. If not, I just taped that transparent arrow to the back of the inner wheel, so I can move it if necessary.

Again, Hitman, an EXCELLENT job. 'Tis a thing of beauty when built. I can't wait to build the other side!

[Hitman]

:damn:

Looks like I forgot to update the time wheel mark from the US tool template:shifty: . When I did the middle wheel I moved the central scale (Knots) for better look purposes, and seems like I forgot to also move the time cursor (As I did the central wheel much later). The red line should be aligned now exactly with the tick before the "1-50" mark, that gives the correct result.

I will upload in some minutes a corrected central wheel:shifty:

[Hitman]

OK, I have uploaded a hotfix with a new middle wheel template (corrected), and updated both SW and NO SW packs with that wheel. Anyone who has already downloaded the pack can get the corrected middle wheel that way. It is the same for both versions (SW and NO SW).

If you have already printed the wheel, and don't want to waste paper, ink or money in re-printing the fixed wheel, just move the speed cursor to align with the mark before the 1-50, instead of with the original red mark. Here is an image showing the exact new orientation of the speed cursor:

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/479/correctedzeitradrckwk7.jpg

I apologize for the inconveniencies:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

[Hitman]

got a users guide?

I use slide rules regularly, but one has to know what each of the "scales" represents in order to effectively use the device. i picture tutorial would be great, but a written tutorial would be quite sufficient.


As stated in the first post, I will make a the tutorial later. I need a rest now, and playing a bit instead of fiddling around with Photoshop :88)

I have not yet built my own wheel, just printed the sheets, which is probably why the error went unnoticed.:hmm:

I had no problems printing in transparent sheets. Just ask in your store for transparent sheets specifically designed for printers, and then laminate them together with a thicker transparent plastic piece you can cut well. Worked for me:up:

[GoldenRivet]

thansk hitman thats exactly what I did and it worked out fine, looking forward to the turorials, no rush mate.

[Johann Vilthomsen]

Dear Hitman, can you translate to spanish the tutorial????

More than nothing (:lol: :lol: :lol: ) because my English is Tarzan level, you know...
My Tarzan, you Jane, Tarzan is an strong boy, Tarzan open a new hole. :lol:

And for every peña from spain.

Congratulations for your improved work.!!!!

Best Regards

Johann Vilthomsen

[Puster Bill]

I apologize for the inconveniencies:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

Well, at least when Onkel Karl asks me why I missed all those tankers, I'll have a good excuse!

Thanks again Hitman, excellent job like I said.

[jmr]

I'm a little confused about the instructions with a couple of the transparancies.

-B should be glued on the backside of disc 3 (Lage) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target course in the middle wheel (2)


So B is immovable? Does it have to be aligned with disc 3 at a specific point, say 0 degrees?

-D should be glued on the backside of disc 7 (Zeit) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target speed in the middle wheel (6)

Same thing here. Should it be aligned with the red hash mark?

[Puster Bill]

I'm a little confused about the instructions with a couple of the transparancies.

-B should be glued on the backside of disc 3 (Lage) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target course in the middle wheel (2)

So B is immovable? Does it have to be aligned with disc 3 at a specific point, say 0 degrees?

-D should be glued on the backside of disc 7 (Zeit) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target speed in the middle wheel (6)
Same thing here. Should it be aligned with the red hash mark?

The answer is:

Yes.

At least for D. I built the front with the B aligned with the 0 degrees.

[Alex]

Great job... :up:

looking forward to the turorials, no rush mate.

:yep:

[TarJak]

Cheers hitman. Love your work!:up:

[Puster Bill]

OK, here is my pitiful attempt at building Hitman's beautiful wheels:

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5618/dsc00014um0.jpg

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5185/dsc00013ym5.jpg


Can't say it enough Hitman: Great job! :up:

[jmr]

Man that looks awesome. Have you figured out how to use it fully yet?

[Hitman]

Really looks beautiful:up: :rock: You built it 100% correctly (At least, 100% correctly to what I made it to be).

I have not yet built mine, now looking forward to doing it after seeing your beautiful job:88)

[mr chris]

Puster Bill, That looks great:rock:
You can build mine any day:yep:. Im sure to bugger up the buliding process.:damn::damn:

[Puster Bill]

Man that looks awesome. Have you figured out how to use it fully yet?

I've figured out the back, it's basically just a circular slide rule.

As for the front, well, I'm still puzzling that out. I haven't had much time to play with it, as family comes first, especially on Mother's Day.

I have a few guesses as to how it MIGHT work, but at this point I am going to keep my own counsel, for fear of appearing as stupid as I actually am...:hmm:

[Puster Bill]

Really looks beautiful:up: :rock: You built it 100% correctly (At least, 100% correctly to what I made it to be).

I have not yet built mine, now looking forward to doing it after seeing your beautiful job:88)

Hey, all I did was put the damn thing together. You did all the artistic stuff.:up:

[Puster Bill]

Puster Bill, That looks great:rock:
You can build mine any day:yep:. Im sure to bugger up the buliding process.:damn::damn:
It isn't hard. Here are a couple of hints:

1. Laminate both sides of each wheel. This is important later on.

2. I use the self-sticking laminating sheets, which aren't as stiff as the thermal lamination. To prevent bubbles in the lamination, lay the laminating sheet sticky side up on a flat surface. Bend the piece being laminated into a gentle 'U' shape, but not so much that it takes a permanent cast. Place the bottom of the 'U' on the lamination first, then smoothly press it down from the center out to the edges.

4. I use push-pins for the pivot. You'll need 2 of them. Using a pair of pliers, pull the pin out of one of them. That will leave a 'socket' to receive the other pin. While the other pin still has the point on it, poke all of the holes in the center of the wheels and indicators individually. Once you have done that, tape the immoveable indicator transparencies to the proper wheels. Assemble all the pieces in order on the pin. Take a pair of wire cutters and trim a little bit of the pin, and test-fit the head of the push-pin you removed the pin from. Keep trimming the pin until it just holds the pieces closely, but not too tightly when fully pushed into the pinless push-pin. When you have it 'adjusted', put a little (just a little!) super-glue on the pin that protrudes above the wheels, and push the head of the push-pin back on.


5. I used regular Scotch tape to secure the pointers on the back of the wheels. Because you laminated the back, you can reposition them if necessary. The tape sticks to the lamination, but it can also be removed. It works better than any of the glues I tried.

6. To hold the backs of the two big wheels together, I used tape. I made 4 small flat 'rolls' of Scotch tape, and put them in between the wheels. You could also use double sided tape, or do like I did with the American Wheel, and just laminate the two big wheels together.

Good luck!

On Edit: Make sure you have good scissors, and take your time cutting out the pieces.

[Hitman]

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/8123/germanwizwheelmy5.jpg

Well, since I did the job I can't avoid the need of explaining it, even at the risk of looking as idiot :lol: , so here it goes briefly (Note: Since I speak german I actually read the small white lettering in the centre, where it gives some incomplete instructions):

1.- Put the exterior wheel with the 180º mark UP (Not down, as you would think)

2.- Align central wheel (Truecourse) with your true course in the white triangle below the 180 mark of the outer wheel.

3.- Move the transparent cursor for Peilung to align with the actual bearing to target. If the target is aligned to receive a shot from your bow tubes, point the part with the "Vorh. Bug" there, if it is aligned to receive a shot from the stern tube, point the "Vorh. Heck" there

4.- Now turn the inner wheel so it indicates the AOB of the target towards your ship. To do that, align the observed or estimated AOB with the transparent cursor for "Peilung"

5.- You can now read off the true course of the target in the true course wheel.

Now, my guess is that the transparent slider with the +60/-60 degrees serves both to get intercept course and enemy speed, confirm the track angle in narrow shots, and also to calculate the spread for multiple shots (Salvos), but it's just a rough guess. Probably when I have built the tool I will be able to tell better.

In Puster Bill's picture, the set-up would be as follows:

1.- Our U-Boot true course is 273

2.- The target has a bearing of either 118 degrees to our starbord side or 297 to our backbord side, depending on which side of the pointer you chose to use (For bow or stern tubes shot)

3.- The target's estimated AOB is either 88 port or 92 starbord, depending on the above

4.- The target's true course is as a result 113

Now, placing the the transparent slider with the +60/-60 degrees aligned in the middle between target's course and our bearing to the target would tell us the exact intercept course to the colision point between us. So changing our course to that new true course would bring us to colide with him (If keeping both UBoat and target had the same speed). This probably is used to start trying a match of speeds and thus get the target's speed via the backside of the ruler while heading to intercept it.

[Indiana_Jones]

this may sound dumb, but do you glue all the wheels back to back to their opposite one? i.e. the big one to the big one and son on?

Doesn't seem to say and I'm a newb :oops:

cheers

-Indy

[Puster Bill]

this may sound dumb, but do you glue all the wheels back to back to their opposite one? i.e. the big one to the big one and son on?

Doesn't seem to say and I'm a newb :oops:

cheers

-Indy

No. You only glue the two largest wheels back to back. Actually, I used tape. Works almost as well, or you could laminate them together, which is what I did with the US IS-WAS. The smaller wheels and doo-dads have to move freely on the central axis.

[Indiana_Jones]

still can't figure out how it works lol

-Indy

[Indiana_Jones]

Anyone?

-Indy

[Hitman]

What is exactly what you don't understand? If you have printed them already, you can post a picture and name them with letters (A,B,C,D...) and I will then tell you which ones goes where:hmm:

[Puster Bill]

What is exactly what you don't understand? If you have printed them already, you can post a picture and name them with letters (A,B,C,D...) and I will then tell you which ones goes where:hmm:
I can't figure out what the problem is either. You show them together in the .pdf you distributed with the wheels, so it shouldn't really be a problem.

At least, I didn't have any issues, but then again I already had made two other wheels, and a couple of circular slide rules, so maybe I just made assumptions that happened to work well.

Just to help you out, indiana_jones, take a look at the pictures I posted of the wheel I assembled from Hitman's instructions.

To get started, and because you can use it as a stand-alone, and it's easier to assemble, build the backside first.

You will need the big wheel that is graduated from just under 6 to 90 degrees, the medium size wheel that has three scales on it (distance, speed, distance from inner scale to outer), and the small wheel that is marked 'Zeit'. You will also need one of the transparent pointers.

Print them out. I use cardstock, and laminate both sides, including the transparency (it gives it added strength).

Poke a hole in the exact center of each piece (the three wheels and the pointer). I use push-pins to make the holes, because I use push-pins as the axle for the wheels.

Take two push-pins. Using a pair of pliers, pull the actual pin out of the head of one of the pins. If the head breaks, try another one.

First put the smallest wheel on the push-pin that still has the pin in it with the face of it towards the head of the pin. Then put the pointer on the pin. Align the pointer so that it points upwards from the red line on the face of the small wheel. Glue or tape it in place (I use tape. That way I can reposition it if I screwed up).

Then, take the medium sized wheel with the three scales and place it behind the small wheel/pointer combo. Obviously, the face has to be towards the head of the pin. Then do the same with the large wheel.

Take a pair of wire cutters and trim the pointy part of the pin so about 1/2 inch (about a centimeter) sticks up from the back of the wheels. Test the pinless head on it for fit. If it fits reasonably tightly, take it off and put a little (just a little!) glue on the trimmed pin sticking up from the back of the wheels, then put the pinless head back on. If there is a significant gap between the back of the wheel and the bottom of the pinless head when it is assembled, trim the pin a little bit at a time until it fits, then glue it.

Viola!.

Here is how to use it:

Take two observations of your target separated by a reasonable amount of time.

Lets say they were 7000 yards at 60 degrees, and 5000 yards at 47 degrees. The amount of time that lapsed between the two observations was 5 minutes.

First, note the difference in degrees: 60 - 47 = 13 degrees. Align the middle wheel so that there are 13 degrees on the big wheel between the 7000 and 5000 range marks on the middle wheel.

In this example, the 5000 will be underneath the 28 degree mark on the big wheel, and the 7000 will be below the 41 degree mark.

We now have the AOB: At the second observation, it was 41 degrees. (it's kind of counter-intuitive that the AOB for the second observation is above the range mark for the first observation, but trust me, that is how it works).

Now we need to find the distance the target has travelled in between those two observations. Without moving the middle wheel, find the 13 degree mark on the outer wheel. Right below that is the distance the target has travelled, about 2400 meters.

Align the 5 minute mark on the small wheel with the 2400 on the inner scale of the middle wheel. You can now read the target speed, 24 knots, on the middle scale of the middle wheel under the pointer that comes off of the small wheel.

You now have the three things you need to input into the Vohrhaltrechner: Bearing, speed, and AOB.

This procedure works best if you are stopped or moving slowly, say 1 knot. There is a more involved procedure if you are moving, but that should get you started.

I did this exercise with my linear rule, as I happened to leave my KM wheel at home today. :damn:

So if I screwed up, I apologize in advance.

On edit: Yep, I screwed up the speed calculation. Should be 15.6 knots.

[Indiana_Jones]

Oh no, I have it made, beautiful job you have done Hitman :D . I just can't figure out how to use the damn thing lol

I know I put my true heading at 180 on the outer wheel, and then point the bow part of the long needle to the ship, bearing relative to my sub. then I get a bit lost, well more lost lol

-Indy

[Hitman]

Ah I see...it is using it what confuses you:up:

Puster Bill gave you the instructions to use the rear side (Though there are several methods you can use), but the front side is very easy once you know the basics. I will try to do a picture of mine with an example later...

[Indiana_Jones]

Thanks alot mate :up:

I'm sure it's one of those things where it's easy to do once you've got it, but hard to explain :know:

-Indy

[Puster Bill]

In checking my answer with the actual whiz wheel, the speed should be 15.6 knots.

Seems I always screw it up using the linear rule for my examples, yet I always seem to get it right (mostly) when I'm actually shooting. Must be stage fright. :oops:

[Indiana_Jones]

Thanks Puster, for the tips.

What you have discribed in using the wheel is the backside? (the one with the Swaztika) in finding a targets speed.

I was after how to use it to find AoB :oops:

-Indy

[Puster Bill]

Thanks Puster, for the tips.

What you have discribed in using the wheel is the backside? (the one with the Swaztika) in finding a targets speed.

I was after how to use it to find AoB :oops:

-Indy
You get the AOB when you use it. In fact, that is the first bit of data it generates.

In my example above, the AOB is 41 degrees. You just have to resolve it to port or starboard. I just imagine being on the targeted ship. However, some people aren't good at that sort of thing, so here is a little chart in case you need it:

Target is in front of you:
___________________to your port_____________to your starboard
moving to you_______starboard____________________port
moving away___________port_____________________starboard


Target is behind you:
____________________to your port ____________to your starboard
moving to you__________port_____________________starboard
moving away_________starboard_____________________port

If you use that chart, we know that a target that goes from bearing 60 degrees to a bearing of 47 degrees is ahead of us, is to our starboard, and is heading towards us. Looking at the chart we can resolve the port/starboard ambiguity of the 41 degrees AOB from the wheel to 41 port.

You could also use the front of the wheel to resolve it, but I find it quicker to do it in my head. Your mileage may vary.

[Maraz]

Hi,

I could understand how both sides of the wheel should work, and I am doing some tests. I usually employ the plotting method (3:15 measurements and so on) but I find that the method using the wheel can be quicker and makes more use of information (e.g. AOB that in the plotting method is not used).

I have a question: in the target speed calculation (rear side of the wheel) I am assuming that own ship must be stationary. But this is a luxury that one can seldom have (need to position better for attack, need to keep depth, etc.).

Is there a way to compensate for own ship movement while computing target's speed (using the rear of the wheel)?

I suppose that (assuming that the submarine has kept constant speed and course) one should make a vector sum of target speed and own ship speed, but I have no idea about how this can be done using the wheel or in another simple way.

I read somewhere that the US wheel could compensate for submarine movement but I have no idea how this was done (I don't have SH4 o I did not study the US wheel)

Thanks

Maraz

[Hitman]

The german wheel works exactly like the US wheel, look for the official manual of the MK3 in the hnsa.org web, and you will soon understand it. There are links to it the SH4 forum, in the thread about the MK3:up:

P.S. you can directly get enemy speed by holding constant bearing with any wiz wheel. Do a search for a thread started by don1reed about old fashion method of determining speed.

[Maraz]

The german wheel works exactly like the US wheel, look for the official manual of the MK3 in the hnsa.org web, and you will soon understand it. There are links to it the SH4 forum, in the thread about the MK3:up:

P.S. you can directly get enemy speed by holding constant bearing with any wiz wheel. Do a search for a thread started by don1reed about old fashion method of determining speed.

Thanks a lot, Hitman.
I found the document,
http://www.hnsa.org/doc/attackfinder/index.htm
it showed other ways of using the wheel from the one I knew, so very useful.

I noticed that the KM version does not have the square grid that is useful for calculating the distance of the submarine from the enemy ship's track (i.e. from the best point for firing the torpedo, AOB = 90°). Calculating this distance was the only reason making me still prefer the plotting method. So I have modified (with my limited painting skills) the center disk of the whiz wheel and the cursor, now my wheel is much uglier than yours but has a little more functionality. :D



http://www.webalice.it/antonio.maraziti/3%20lage%20rad%20copy.jpg

So when I can lie and wait I can use multiple observations to get enemy ship's speed and course, when I am in haste and have to get closer to the ship I can use the matching speed method. I still have to try the speed correction method.
Using the wheel has the advantage (versus plotting) that it makes more efficient use of available information, one is no more restrained in using 3:15 minutes for measuring, etc.

Maraz

[Hitman]

The KM Kaleuns had for that a table printed in paper, I have done one for SH3 and I'm thinking about making a mod for replacing the pull-down map in SH3 GWX or NYGM with it. Since the german U-Boot crews had no "tracking party", everything was done "on the fly" by two persons, the one directing fire and observation (IWO on the UZO when surfaced or Kaleun on the scope when submerged) and TDC operator. The first one gave all data he could observe or calculate directly, the second one did the calculations with wiz-wheels and tables and fed the TDC with the results.
The table I have prepared (Never seen a real one, but based on all info I have gathered by now) represents 3000x3000 metres in 36 squares (6x6), with the U-Boot down-left and the target up-left. The idea is to steer the U-Boot so that the enemy stays constant at 90 or 270 degree bearing, and make two observations. When you do the second one, you go in th square right from the U-Boot as much as it has advanced (There is another graded scale below for indicating distance travelled at 1, 3,5 and 7 knots), then down from the top as much as the enemy vessel closed in, and that gives you a point on the square. Since it has also graduated scale representing the AOB of the target, you just read the AOB in the line your determined point is intersecting. No need to plot or draw anything on the chart:up:

Once you have the AOB, you simply use a slide ruler and determine instantly the enemy speed by taking your own speed and target AOB into account.

[Maraz]

Very interesting, could you think about making this table available?
Cheers
Maraz

[Kaleun Klink]

You know, an industrious kaleun (i.e., one with extra time on his hands) could bring in a little pocket change building and offering the various wiz wheels + instruction sheets...
:hmm:
(Not me, mind you: I'd get Elmer's glue everywhere.)

[Hitman]

Very interesting, could you think about making this table available?
Cheers
Maraz


They will come somewhen, but I have other priorities now. Here is an example of the crude version I'm using right now (Externally to the game, i.e. printed in a DIN A4 paper sheet). It has bits of graphics by other authors, so it is for personal use only, but you get the idea of how the final version I want should look like :hmm:

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5272/printabletabellenif3.jpg

[masterskop]

Hi Hitman,

I download the km wiz wheel. Man, that's fantastic. Makes game playing really a pleasure now. However after downloading the wiz wheel, I only have the following files:

1.1 Fix Read
Pailung Rad
Kurs Rad
Laga Rad
Transparencies
Lage Rad Rueck

I presume that these files are for the front part of the wheel. Do you have a download link to the back of the wheel as in Puster Bill's wheel that he made from your files? I know that the outer back wheel is the Lage Rad Rueck. But the center two wheels are what is missing from the download.

[Hitman]

Huhhh the pack (RAR file) should have 7 templates :huh:

You are missing templates 6 (Strecke Rad Rück) and 7 (Zeit Rad Rück):hmm:

Are you sure they were not in the file?? Which one did you download?

[Heibges]

OK, here is my pitiful attempt at building Hitman's beautiful wheels:

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5618/dsc00014um0.jpg

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5185/dsc00013ym5.jpg


Can't say it enough Hitman: Great job! :up:

Wow! You should start a home based business manufacturing those!

[masterskop]

Hitman,

You're are correct there are 7 files. When I used winrar to unrar them, it only extracted 5 of the 7. I'll have to figure out why the other files did not get extracted.

thanks!

[Puster Bill]

Wow! You should start a home based business manufacturing those!

Meh. It looks better than it actually is. I've noticed that my printer tends to 'drag' a bit when I use cardstock, so that the wheels aren't perfectly round. It doesn't really affect the performance, but it is annoying.

I'd consider it if I could do it using thin sheets of lexan or acrylic.

I've been thinking of printing the wheels on 'sticker' sheets, to be put on plastic or metal wheels, and perhaps gluing the transparencies to appropriately shaped pieces of plastic. That would make a wheel that is durable (providing you laminate them to keep the print from wearing off), and more authentic.

The problem with that scheme is that I never have time to work on stuff like that :damn:

It's one thing to print a few sheets out and just cut them and pin them together, and quite another to fabricate the wheels when you don't have the tools (or the skills!) needed.

[XLjedi]

OK, here is my pitiful attempt at building Hitman's beautiful wheels:

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5618/dsc00014um0.jpg

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5185/dsc00013ym5.jpg


Can't say it enough Hitman: Great job! :up:

Pitiful you say? :doh:

Looks pretty darn good to me!

[ichso]

Nice thingy.
I prefer the version without the swastika. Good that there is one too, so I don't have to mess up what I downloaded ;)

[Puster Bill]

Nice thingy.
I prefer the version without the swastika. Good that there is one too, so I don't have to mess up what I downloaded ;)

I put that bug in Hitman's ear: I suggested that he make two versions, one with a swastika, and one without for the benefit of people who live in countries where it is forbidden.

I use the one without the swastika, just out of personal preference. I don't want people to think I'm some kind of fascist wacko (because they don't understand it is a historically correct tool for a game).

It doesn't take away from the experience of using it, though, because Hitman artfully put an Iron Cross cross in it's place, and it is small enough to not be obtrusively different.

[joegrundman]

If you were going to include that Geschw. und Lage Tabelle in game, why would it have to replace the map file. Could it not just go as an additional page?

And I also don't use the swastika. My german-jewish background doesn't have a problem with sinking ze Britishers, but somehow i don't really want to be looking at a swastika in my hands

joe

[ichso]

:yep:
In the end it't still just a game. No need for THAT much historical accuracy for me.

I even reworked my version of the downloaded navmap, which had also a swastika in the corner.
Don't understand why so many people want to see those things everywhere in the game just because it looks more real then :nope:

[Hitman]

Don't understand why so many people want to see those things everywhere in the game just because it looks more real then :nope:

As some said before already, just personal preferences. Anyway what I'm sure -and that's the good thing- is that the swastika users do not have it for glorifying nazis or whatever crap like that. :) I'm happy that Bill came with the idea of the no-sw version, seeing it now in perspective it is the best way to please everyone:up:

If you were going to include that Geschw. und Lage Tabelle in game, why would it have to replace the map file. Could it not just go as an additional page?


Probably, but I have no idea how to do that:lol:

[joegrundman]

Do you mean something like this? (It's draggable too)

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6818/sh3imagewithlagetabelledo0.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sh3imagewithlagetabelledo0.jpg)

[ichso]

Do you mean something like this? (It's draggable too)

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6818/sh3imagewithlagetabelledo0.th.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sh3imagewithlagetabelledo0.jpg)

Is that avaiblable ingame ? Sometimes I think I have to look closer at stuff...

[don1reed]

Museum quality, Hitman and Puster Bill.

All the best.

[Puster Bill]

Museum quality, Hitman and Puster Bill.

All the best.

I'm just an idiot that can print stuff and use a pair of scissors. Hitman is the real artist.

[joegrundman]

Ichso: "Is that avaiblable ingame ? Sometimes I think I have to look closer at stuff..."

No it's not already available in game, i just put it there on the mission status screen which i use for testing as it's such an unimportant page in other respects

[ichso]

Ichso: "Is that avaiblable ingame ? Sometimes I think I have to look closer at stuff..."

No it's not already available in game, i just put it there on the mission status screen which i use for testing as it's such an unimportant page in other respects

Ah, thanks :D
I thought it was one of those pull down pages in the upper left corner of the nav map screen. The screenshot looked like this only not on the nav map :)

[joegrundman]

Yes, that's how it works. I put it in the game as a pull-down page, but the resolution isn't good enough for use yet.

[klh]

Hitman,

Just wanted to say thanks, and to show you the final result. It's really no different than Puster Bill's except for the nut/bolt used for the axle, and I used a thermal laminator (laminated the clear pieces twice for rigidity).

Front:
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/3458/img3263qk8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Back:
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/7144/img3264dd2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Now to practice using it...:|\\

[Kanelglass]

Ahoy there. :D I'm very new to card stock(never used it before). How does it work ? do you feed the printer with card stock instead of paper ? What kind of card stock do you use ? Link please. Do I need a special printer for printing card stock ? I found a guide how to print onto card stock but it never says anything about the printer, though it looks like a normal one. Please forgive me for being lazy, I don't know where to start :oops:

[klh]

Ahoy there. :D I'm very new to card stock(never used it before). How does it work ? do you feed the printer with card stock instead of paper ? What kind of card stock do you use ? Link please. Do I need a special printer for printing card stock ? I found a guide how to print onto card stock but it never says anything about the printer, though it looks like a normal one. Please forgive me for being lazy, I don't know where to start :oops:

Kanelglass,

I can't speak for your printer, but most will take plain cardstock just fine. I use an HP Inkjet, and we make all our birthday cards at home with it using plain cardstock (just extra thick paper really).

I also printed the clear bits on acetate, otherwise known as overhead transparency film. It helps to tell the printer in the options what type of paper/film you are using so it adjusts the amount of ink to use.

Give it a try, and let us know the results.

[Hitman]

Cheers klh....nice work!

I see you also have a customized recognition manual, with quick tabs for the vessel classes :up:

[klh]

I see you also have a customized recognition manual, with quick tabs for the vessel classes

Did that one ages ago. I prefer working with hard copy instead of having everything on the screen; it adds to the realism (that and the red light bulb :cool: ).

I print out my flight plan and charts with flight sim too. What a geek!

[jmr]

That turned out very nicely, klh. I'm curious though, for the hole in the center, what did you use to make it? I found that when I drilled a hole in the cardstock it would affect the accuracy of the wheel (lines not lining up with other lines) but if I kept it simple and used a pushpin with cork on the reverse side, accuracy of the wheels wouldn't be affected.

[klh]

That turned out very nicely, klh. I'm curious though, for the hole in the center, what did you use to make it? I found that when I drilled a hole in the cardstock it would affect the accuracy of the wheel (lines not lining up with other lines) but if I kept it simple and used a pushpin with cork on the reverse side, accuracy of the wheels wouldn't be affected.

I drilled it very carefully. First I used an awl to poke a small hole at the centerpoint printed on each card. Then I drilled through at slow speed taking care to stay on the centerpoint. I think the key is taking your time (the same is true for cutting out the cards - I was never that good at cutting in kindergarten).

But you are right, there is a slight offset on a couple of the cards (< 1mm) that does affect the accuracy by a degree. If I had to do it over again (which I might if I build the US version for SH4), I would probably use a drill press and fasten the card to the bench before drilling.

I considered using a pushpin, but I preferred the nut/bolt option so that I could tighten it easily as it wears (I used a nylon locking nut).

[Puster Bill]

Excellent work klh. Mine isn't as nice as yours (and currently is all bent up from being shoved in a drawer!).

[jimmie]

Hitman,

Just wanted to say thanks, and to show you the final result. It's really no different than Puster Bill's except for the nut/bolt used for the axle, and I used a thermal laminator (laminated the clear pieces twice for rigidity).

Front:
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/3458/img3263qk8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Back:
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/7144/img3264dd2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Now to practice using it...:|\\

That's awesome -- and your ship rec book!!

[klh]

Just in case you didn't see this in the forum, I released a handbook on how to use the attack disc. Nothing original, but I tried to put all the information in one place for myself and thought I should share it.

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=126824

[Puster Bill]

Just in case you didn't see this in the forum, I released a handbook on how to use the attack disc. Nothing original, but I tried to put all the information in one place for myself and thought I should share it.

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=126824

Nice work. Just took a look at it, and learned a trick or two.

[Puster Bill]

OK klh, you inspired me to make another wheel.

My first one (pictured earlier in this thread) used cardstock and transparencies, and I used the self-stick lamination. It works fine, but it did get bent up a bit in my desk drawer.

This time, I did things a little differently.

First, I made it smaller. The new one is 6" in diameter. Being smaller, for a given material thickness it will be more rigid. Also, the smaller size makes it easier to take along. I play on a laptop, so being able to take the wheel along is a big plus.

Secondly, I used an Elmers glue stick to glue an extra piece of cardstock on the back of each wheel. That makes it more rigid, especially now that the main center wheel is 4 sheets of cardstock thick. I laminated each wheel front and back.

Third, instead of just laminating the transparencies twice (once back, once front), I did it four times (twice front, twice back). They came out pretty rigid. Not as much as I would have liked, but acceptable.

I still used the push-pin technique, but I must admit I am pretty much at the limit for that technique: The wheel is now so thick that I couldn't use a pin with the tip cut off. I had to use a pin with the tip intact, and hammer it into a de-pinned head.

I plan on changing that at some point, however. I'm thinking of either doing what you did with a small bolt and a nut, or seeing if a rivet of some kind would work. I haven't made up my mind yet.

It took me roughly an hour and a half to do the whole thing.

When I get a chance, I will post a comparison picture of the old and new wheels.

[Puster Bill]

OK, as promised, here is the new wheel compared to the old:

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/6894/dsc00952ya1.jpg

Notice how the inner wheel on the new small one is thicker.

[NealT]

Goodness me...I wish I had one of those...

:cry:

[Puster Bill]

Goodness me...I wish I had one of those...

:cry:
Make one. It isn't hard.

Go down to the local Wal*Mart and buy some inkjet cardstock, some inkjet transparencies (not absolutely necessary), and some self-stick laminating sheets*.

Should cost you all of $10 or $15.

Download Hitman's file, print it out, and assemble it. Pretty simple. There really is no excuse not to have one.

It makes manual targeting *MUCH* more accurate, at least it did for me.

*You can thermally laminate them also. If you have a thermal laminator, you're all set, and it will make a somewhat stiffer and more durable wheel. You could also have Staples do it for you.

[NealT]

My problem is I am not 'mechanically inclined' if you know what I mean.

So far, in the last 6 months, I have broken perfectly good car, DVD player, microwave, and dryer...not to mention electric razor, and who knows what all else...

'sigh'.

[Puster Bill]

My problem is I am not 'mechanically inclined' if you know what I mean.

So far, in the last 6 months, I have broken perfectly good car, DVD player, microwave, and dryer...not to mention electric razor, and who knows what all else...

'sigh'.

Unless you are so totally inept that you can't use scissors, that's no excuse.

[Abd_von_Mumit]

Hitman - could it be possible to get the source file containing the curves? It would let me scale it without fear of getting pixel-staircase on some lines (I keep getting them now; softening doesn't help a lot as it causes intolerable blur). I'd really appreciate that.

Also I have some size problems. The inside wheels seem to be a bit too little after printing - they don't fill the gaps in the bigger wheels, leaving like a 1-2 mm free space. I'm not a graphics magician, but I think I've did the scaling in a proper way (all the pics scaled down with the same factor, in both horizontal and vertical dimensions, proportionally).

Any tips? :)

[Puster Bill]

Hitman - could it be possible to get the source file containing the curves? It would let me scale it without fear of getting pixel-staircase on some lines (I keep getting them now; softening doesn't help a lot as it causes intolerable blur). I'd really appreciate that.

Are you scaling them up, or down? I scaled mine down with no problems.

My original wheel came out to 16 cm in diameter, the new smaller one is about 12.5 cm in diameter. I made a temporary 'pocket version' of the back side (the slide rule/"omnimeter" part, and it was usable (in good light!). I didn't seem to get any aliasing.


Also I have some size problems. The inside wheels seem to be a bit too little after printing - they don't fill the gaps in the bigger wheels, leaving like a 1-2 mm free space. I'm not a graphics magician, but I think I've did the scaling in a proper way (all the pics scaled down with the same factor, in both horizontal and vertical dimensions, proportionally).

Any tips? :)

That I can't really help you with. I've had the same sort of effect, except that my printer 'drags' ever so slightly with cardstock, so that the wheels are *VERY* slightly out of round. This is less of a problem the smaller I go, of course. It is very annoying and noticeable when I try and make a full size circular slide rule.

My best advice is to either be a little generous in cutting with the scissors, or go ahead and fiddle with the sizes of the inner wheels, scaling them *SLIGHTLY* larger (it won't affect the accuracy).

[Hitman]

Hitman - could it be possible to get the source file containing the curves? It would let me scale it without fear of getting pixel-staircase on some lines (I keep getting them now; softening doesn't help a lot as it causes intolerable blur). I'd really appreciate that.

Also I have some size problems. The inside wheels seem to be a bit too little after printing - they don't fill the gaps in the bigger wheels, leaving like a 1-2 mm free space. I'm not a graphics magician, but I think I've did the scaling in a proper way (all the pics scaled down with the same factor, in both horizontal and vertical dimensions, proportionally).

Any tips? :)


The sources files is what you have already. I worked using directly the BMP :yep: However, rescalling with any decent graphics editing program shouldn't give you bad results. If you don't have one and don't want to buy one, just download a free trial version of Photoshop, it will be OK :up:

[Abd_von_Mumit]

Hitman - could it be possible to get the source file containing the curves? It would let me scale it without fear of getting pixel-staircase on some lines (I keep getting them now; softening doesn't help a lot as it causes intolerable blur). I'd really appreciate that.

Also I have some size problems. The inside wheels seem to be a bit too little after printing - they don't fill the gaps in the bigger wheels, leaving like a 1-2 mm free space. I'm not a graphics magician, but I think I've did the scaling in a proper way (all the pics scaled down with the same factor, in both horizontal and vertical dimensions, proportionally).

Any tips? :)


The sources files is what you have already. I worked using directly the BMP :yep: However, rescalling with any decent graphics editing program shouldn't give you bad results. If you don't have one and don't want to buy one, just download a free trial version of Photoshop, it will be OK :up:

Oh, I see, will have to retry the procedure. I used my mate's Photoshop, I'll have to ask her for some assistance. Thanks for the answer. :)

[Puster Bill]

While we are on the subject, I have a suggestion to "improve" the slide rule/omnimeter portion of your most excellent wheel, Hitman.

On several occasions, I have found that my relative bearings between two different observations had less that 6 degrees of difference, and this can cause a problem with using a standard sine scale.

Usually, I see this happen when the target is moving slowly, or I am at a very small AOB relative to the target, or because of circumstances (low visibility, an escort heading towards me, etc.) I have to use a small time period between sightings.

When this happens, I pause the game and go through the tedious procedure of converting the ranges from meters to yards so that I can use the US IS-WAS/omnimeter that you made. It has an 'ST' scale that allows you to use two observations with less than 6 degrees of difference.

If I don't have my US version with me, I have to either do the whole procedure on my linear rule (which introduces more possibility of error: I sometimes screw up the speed calculation), or more likely I try to guesstimate where the particular ST value would be on the S scale.

The other advantage of having an ST scale on the wheel would be that it would allow you to do fully manual range estimates. In other words, you look up the mast height, use the reticle to find the angle, then use the wheel to figure the range, which you would enter manually into the vorhaltrechner. You can't do that with the US version, though, because the scale is very rudimentary and only shows whole degrees.

Just something to think about.

[Heibges]

Someone could start a business, making these and selling them to other kaleun's.

Hint hint.

Nudge Nudge.

[Puster Bill]

Someone could start a business, making these and selling them to other kaleun's.

Hint hint.

Nudge Nudge.
A few people have mentioned or hinted at this.

I'm not going to do it for several reasons.

First, it's Hitman's artwork. I would no more sell his intellectual property for my profit than he would mine. If I were to manufacture them, part of the money would have to go to Hitman. He has graciously given us permission to use it for ourselves, but he didn't give us permission to make profit off of it.

Second, while it is not a difficult process to build one, it is tedious if you want to do it so that it will last (ie., if I were selling them, I would insist on quality). To do a full KM wheel with both sides, double thickness on cardstock and double laminated takes at least an hour. You could make a useable one yourself in less time.

Third, I would probably have to shift from self-stick lamination to thermal (which means I would have to buy a machine), and I'd also have to use a better way to connect them together, something like klh's bolt and nylock nut.

All these things add cost. I can't guess how much Hitman would think is fair for creating the thing, but the cost for manufacturing and shipping the thing for me is up to 20 or 30 bucks. Most of the material costs are pretty low (except for the ink!), but I'd have to either buy a thermal laminator or have them laminated at a local office supply store. That means I have to either spread the cost of the laminator among perhaps 10 or 20 wheels, or add in the cost of getting 7 pieces laminated at least once, perhaps twice. Then you have to add in my time, which generally is in short supply, and that supply is getting shorter as I get older.

So you are looking at $30 - $40 for something you can build yourself by going down to Wal*Mart and buying cardstock, inkjet transparencies, and some lamination. It would cost you all of about $15 for enough supplies to make up to 10 wheels.

One possibility might be to have a company manufacture a bunch of them. Concise in Japan still makes circular slide rules:
http://www.concise.co.jp/eng0731/slide.html
My guess, however, is that the number that would have to be purchased for them to manufacture a batch would have to be in the several hundred - several thousand range for them to consider it, at a unit cost of at least $30.

I can't see us as a community being able to support that. For instance, I probably wouldn't buy one: I already have two (well, four if you include the US SACF/IS-WAS, and even more if you include my linear and circular slide rules). If you are hardcore enough to want one, you already have one, and many if not most of the people who play SHIII don't bother with manual targeting. My brother occasionally plays, but he didn't want me to make him a KM wheel because he doesn't want to bother with manual targeting.

So, at least for me, the short answer is no, at least for now.

If you want to use one, make it for yourself. If it seems a daunting task, just make the one side (the one with the small wheel with the eagle, marked 'Zeit'). That is the actual calculation side that gives you the speed and AOB, depending on the method you use. I only use the other side occasionally to resolve AOB past 90 degrees (ie., solution gives 45 degree AOB but I'm to the stern of the ship, AOB is then 135 degrees). It's pretty simple: You print them out, cut 3 circles, and pin them together.

[don1reed]

Hi Gents,

There are other fastening tools on the market that will allow for a flatter, more compact application of putting both sides of the whiz-wheel together:

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1971/screwsnw7.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=screwsnw7.jpg)

I picked these up at a local ACE hdwe store...a grand total of $0.62 ea.

they're 1/4" x 1/4" (~5mm x 5mm) Flathead screws, the heads are 1 cm dia. (brass)

-...-

When making my WW, I elected to have each pic covered in plastic @ kinkos for ~$2.50 per pic.; however, if I would have pre-cut the individual rings, I could have put more than one item in plastic at a time--reducing the cost by half.

...Next time I'll know better :)

-...-

Although I have many tools to do the job, I made my holes in the wheels by poking a stove heated ice-pick into the centers to form a pilot hole. I followed up by heating an old screwdriver (Phillips head) and finished sizing the holes to take the shaft of the screws. Very quick and easy.

Caveat: No, you don't need to heat the pick or screwdriver to red-hot, just hot enough to melt the plastic.

cheers,

[Puster Bill]

Nice don1reed. I tend to use pins because I have them here, but I'll go looking for those this weekend.

[don1reed]

Howdy Bill,

Yep, the pins are great to use too. Just reading that some folks thought it was too difficult to make these wonderful WWs. I've made many different types of sliderules over the years, both circular and straight and found that drilling the holes through the plastic caused small rips and snags, or the drill bits would run off target, unless pilot hole was started first, of course. I finally settled on the burn-through method as the quickest and most accurate; but, thats just me.:lol:

Cheers,

[Puster Bill]

Well Don, I think the ones who are afraid of making them because it seems too hard just haven't bothered trying.

It's EASY.

Just about the only "hard" part is putting the pin (or whatever) exactly on the crosshairs that Hitman put at the center of each wheel. If you can do that, you can make these things.

As I said, I don't really use the side with the fancy doodads on it, just the simple slide rule on the other side.

It's certainly easier than making a linear rule. I've made those also, and they are much more finicky about construction.

[Pisces]

hi,

I finally made my own hardcopy with version 1.1 of this neat tool too. Indeed, it was alot easier than I thought. But I made sure I was well prepared. I used A4 sized sticker sheets to print on and stuck that onto old thin cardboard pizza boxes (about 1 mm thick). Cutting them out along the edges before covering them with sticky transparent (book) cover foil. It's not completely rigid, but good enough. I expected the foil to be statically charged so it would lift itself up in the air, to attach itself to the disks in the most annoying and 'unremovable' way possible. But it didn't. :rock: It stayed dormant on my working area. Unlike some previous attempts with this kind of foil on books.

The transparent pointers didn't come out very good. I printed them on inkjet transparencies that have one rough side for the ink to stick to. I also laminated them with that sticky foil but that led to unavoidable air bubbles, making them a bit blurry. I am not sure how this is going to work out when playing in 'rig for red' situations. As I like to keep it as dark as possible. Am I right in thinking that laserjet/copier transparencies are smooth on both sides? So this could be avoided with that?

Yesterday I asked in the KM Angriffscheibe manual thread about how to interpret the 2 ship symbols on the (scope)bearing pointer. Joegrundman said today the ship symbols were displaced outwards on the pointer in his version (to be used with the small fat red/green 60 degree pointer) compared to Hitman's original version. But this change does not seem to be included in the latest release (1.1) of Hitman's disk images. It appears joegrundman's mod (maybe OLC too), the final flash executable, and the version at the beginning of this thread all have slightly different pointers. Also, a centerline is missing making it difficult to align degrees on that 60 deg pointer. Further I noticed the center cross on the Lage wheel (same side) is a bit out of center. I drew lines between the degrees to check. And this causes the disk s to be sometimes 1 degree out of alignment. Not much (but very annoying once you know), and easily fixable in the image I think.

Some more cosmetic things (if I can persuade Hitman for an update of the files):

- There is a small white square on the yellow 'Strecke rad' disk between 6.0 and 6.5 knots.
- Between 3.1 and 3.3 on the knots and aswell as both km scales there are some irregular marks.
- The red line (the unity-mark) on the 'Zeit' (time) disk is not exactly above 1 minute 40 seconds. (which is 100 seconds and so they should be aligned)

And my final remark, the angle/distance/speed/time side could use a free pointer-tool. If you need to bridge time (i.e. on the seconds scale, the orange ring) or knots to an angle this is not possible without one. If you want to calculate angles smaller than 5.7 degrees on it this is even neccessary. See the in Angriffscheibe manual thread where I explained it. My solution:

http://members.home.nl/rico.v.jansen/freepointer.jpg

[Pisces]

Hitman - could it be possible to get the source file containing the curves? It would let me scale it without fear of getting pixel-staircase on some lines (I keep getting them now; softening doesn't help a lot as it causes intolerable blur). I'd really appreciate that.

Also I have some size problems. The inside wheels seem to be a bit too little after printing - they don't fill the gaps in the bigger wheels, leaving like a 1-2 mm free space. I'm not a graphics magician, but I think I've did the scaling in a proper way (all the pics scaled down with the same factor, in both horizontal and vertical dimensions, proportionally).

Any tips? :)I printed them out with Microsoft photoeditor (part of Office 200) as a first try, by setting magnification percentage. But somehow they ended up in missmatching sizes while I kept the printer settings (margins etc.) the same. Then I changed to setting the magnificaton in terms of size in centimeters. (letting Windows take care of margins vs. paper size) Since the templates all have the same pixel dimensions, they should also end up on paper with the same DotsPerInch resolution. And they did nicely. :D

[Puster Bill]

The transparent pointers didn't come out very good. I printed them on inkjet transparencies that have one rough side for the ink to stick to. I also laminated them with that sticky foil but that led to unavoidable air bubbles, making them a bit blurry. I am not sure how this is going to work out when playing in 'rig for red' situations. As I like to keep it as dark as possible. Am I right in thinking that laserjet/copier transparencies are smooth on both sides? So this could be avoided with that?


I haven't really had a problem with this, and I have built several.

Some of it has to do with technique, to be sure.

I use the inkjet transparencies, and also the self-stick lamination. When you apply the lamination to the transparency, or vice-versa, bend it into a "U" shape, and have the center touch first and work from the center out.

If you do get an air bubble, don't despair. Take a small sewing needle and put a small hole in the center of the bubble through the lamination, but not the transparency. Then carefully using your fingers, smooth the air out of that hole working from the edge of the bubble inward. You should be able to completely get rid of the bubble, and be left with just a very unobtrusive tiny hole in the lamination.

One other trick is to let the ink dry for a bit before laminating the transparency. Then carefully laminate the side with the ink on it (to protect the ink). Then you can build up multiple layers of lamination to give those pieces stiffness.

Don't get discouraged. At least now if you want to just re-do the parts, you don't have to start from scratch.

Oh, and one other thing: Even if it looks like crap (like some of mine have in the past), as long as you get everything centered correctly, it will work fine.

[Pisces]

I haven't really had a problem with this, and I have built several.

Some of it has to do with technique, to be sure.

I use the inkjet transparencies, and also the self-stick lamination. When you apply the lamination to the transparency, or vice-versa, bend it into a "U" shape, and have the center touch first and work from the center out.

If you do get an air bubble, don't despair. Take a small sewing needle and put a small hole in the center of the bubble through the lamination, but not the transparency. Then carefully using your fingers, smooth the air out of that hole working from the edge of the bubble inward. You should be able to completely get rid of the bubble, and be left with just a very unobtrusive tiny hole in the lamination.

One other trick is to let the ink dry for a bit before laminating the transparency. Then carefully laminate the side with the ink on it (to protect the ink). Then you can build up multiple layers of lamination to give those pieces stiffness.

Don't get discouraged. At least now if you want to just re-do the parts, you don't have to start from scratch.

Oh, and one other thing: Even if it looks like crap (like some of mine have in the past), as long as you get everything centered correctly, it will work fine.I am pretty proud of it actually. The bubbles on the transparencies I mentioned are not really bubbles in that sense. More like an thin air-filled layer across the whole area. But I suppose when letting the air out I can use my nails to rub it out. The disks themselves are almost bubble-less. Besides, I paid good attention the feedback you gave from your attempts. :up:

[joegrundman]

For anybody who wants them, the images I used for building the metric sliderule in the U-jagd tools 1.3 mod can be obtained in bmp format with centre crosses for alignment here:

http://www.mediafire.com/?4mc1mwaohck

For pix: see the U-jagd tools thread in the SH3 mod forum

joe

[Hitman]

I wish I had the time to do a full update of the wheels, but right now I lack it, to the point I have stopped playing SH3 and SH4. There are many things I have learned on the way, and so many more I learned from you guys who follow passionately these kind of handtools, and I would really really like to be able to put together a new, updated version with a KM style manual.

I have copies of some of the sheets of the original Kriegsmarine manual for that instrument and some additional pictures of the wiz-wheel (See below), and now I also know that only has one side, the main one :hmm: and the other mathematical calculations were done with other slide rulers.

All that knowledge was collected after I did my templates, thus some of the imperfections in the wheel come from that (Others are entirely my own fault).

However, I will try to upload one little fix I had ready before I got too busy with real life, which will allow having the ship silhouettes on the pointer be aligned correctly.

Glad you are all enjoying the wheel anyway.:up:



http://aycu12.webshots.com/image/43291/2004949269751837940_rs.jpg


http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/40188/2005299641005346371_rs.jpg

[Hitman]

Oh, and concerning building and selling them, I checked the prices of the machinery need to produce in great numbers the plates, and it would be about 2000 € for the special shaped cut mouldings. Add to that the cost of printing the images on the plates before being cut, the plastic plates, and assembling them later. I did this research to see if it could be a good thing for subsim.com to sell them, but I concluded that it means a too great initial investment.

Hand building would be out of question for me in this case, as you can't afford the necessary quality, durability and specially, number of units.

Sorry :down:

[Puster Bill]

You are the man, Hitman. I certain understand about having other obligations. Your research into this has expanded our knowledge greatly, and I think I can speak for just about every one in saying

THANK YOU!

You are a gentleman :yep: and a scholar :know:.

[neu seewolf]

For really rigid wheels I tried cutting up an accordion file and gluing the templates to it with a glue stick. I just made the rear of the device. I mounted each wheel template on a piece of accordion file cut to the same size. For fastening I used a push pin and a pencil eraser. It works great! Thanks to hitman for the templates, KLH for his amazing manual and to Puster Bill for showing the way. Great work gents! :up:

[don1reed]

Excellent find, Hitman.

I take it then, looking at the instructions you provided, the 60red/60 green (pie wedge) cursor has a longer stem that the user places over the Relative Bearing of the target ship, then rotates 180red/180green AOBcursor to the Rel Br line. Once there, AOB red or green angle is placed on the pie wedge centerline, then the target course is read. ( It's harder to explain, but the diagram on the instruction sheet says it all.)

Cheers,

[klh]

Just an fyi - I've published version 3 of the Attack Disc Handbook...

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showpost.php?p=812364&postcount=55

[Kaleu. Jochen Mohr]

whats this thingy for ? :-?

[klh]

whats this thingy for ? :-?

Assuming you mean the attack disc (Angriffsscheibe), it is a tool primarily used to help the U-boat reach a favorable attack position and solve for target data to input into the TDC. It is very useful to those who use manual targeting.

One side is an angle solver, and the other is a circular slide rule to solve for time, distance, speed, and angles.

[Eaj13]

I wish I had the time to do a full update of the wheels, but right now I lack it, to the point I have stopped playing SH3 and SH4. There are many things I have learned on the way, and so many more I learned from you guys who follow passionately these kind of handtools, and I would really really like to be able to put together a new, updated version with a KM style manual.

I have copies of some of the sheets of the original Kriegsmarine manual for that instrument and some additional pictures of the wiz-wheel (See below), and now I also know that only has one side, the main one :hmm: and the other mathematical calculations were done with other slide rulers.

All that knowledge was collected after I did my templates, thus some of the imperfections in the wheel come from that (Others are entirely my own fault).

However, I will try to upload one little fix I had ready before I got too busy with real life, which will allow having the ship silhouettes on the pointer be aligned correctly.

Glad you are all enjoying the wheel anyway.:up:



http://aycu12.webshots.com/image/43291/2004949269751837940_rs.jpg


http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/40188/2005299641005346371_rs.jpg

amigo Hitman

te adjunto enlace a foto de otro modelo de regla de cáculo circular de la KM, recién adquirida. ¿Tal vez pudieras contextualizarla en relación a tus fantásticas piezas? Carezco de manual relacionado. Mil gracias de antemano por tu ayuda. Subiré fotos más en detalle en cuanto saque tiempo

http://ag727.vox.com/library/post/regla-de-c%C3%A1lculo-para-disparo-de-torpedos-km.html

descripción:
Manueller Torpedovorhaltrechner.
Skalenscheibe aus weißem Kunststoff mit einer Plexiglasskala zur Einstellung und Ablesung von Lagen-, Schneid- und Vorhaltewinkel bzw. Schussrichtung. Hersteller "Dennert & Pape, Hamburg-Altona", Werk.Nr. "73988". Dazu der hölzerne Aufbewahrungskasten mit Firmenschildchen und Nummernschild "Mar.Nr. 2151. Kastengröße 28 x 35 x 12 cm.

saludos
Alejandro

[Puster Bill]

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/2856/25620315ly7.jpg

I *WANT* one.

[Eaj13]

and a little video

http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=5zt_f3IzsJM

[Puster Bill]

OK, it looks like a standard circular slide rule with a couple of linear arms that pivot off a centrally pivoted arm. That could be kind of tricky to make out of cardstock and transparencies.

Perhaps an adaptation of it, simplifying those functions done by the arms, would be a better idea.

[spugnoid]

Is there any chance of obtaining a vector graphic of these files-- I am getting them printed onto vinyl and stuck onto thin plastic and the print shop would prefer to work with vector format but can still do raster if thats all I can provide.

Thanks,

spugnoid

[Hitman]

Alex,

that's the german equivalent to the american BANJO, and you can find instructions for its use here: http://www.hnsa.org/doc/banjo/index.htm

That was a typichal WW1 calculator, but in WW2 they were kept for back-up purposes, in case the TDC broke :up:

That could be kind of tricky to make out of cardstock and transparencies.


Oh, it could be done, be sure :D the rotation is only in two dimensions, and that simplifies it considerably.

Only, it would be a large amount of work to create the templates :down: , but not to later build it once you have them.

Perhaps an adaptation of it, simplifying those functions done by the arms, would be a better idea.

I have already done a sketch of a simplified adaptation....

[starbird]

I *WANT* one.

Very cool. Looks like a miniature torpedo director, you can see how they were used in the first 2 videos here

http://www.dreadnoughtproject.org/tech/

pitctures here

http://www.gwpda.org/naval/a186365.htm

At least, thats what came to mind when I saw the picture.

[don1reed]

Welcome aboard, Spugnoid.

I don't have the answer you seek; but, one of these lads here is bound too. So stay tuned.

Cheers,

[spugnoid]

Well, I've gone ahead and made vector files of the front side minus the transparencies so far. Now that I look at the backside it appears to be some kind of log scale. I'm just learning to use a vector program as I spend most of my design time in photoshop. So now I'm at a loss as to how to make Inkscape behave in such a way.

Oh well, the front side turned out quite well for my first foray into vector.

spugnoid.

[spugnoid]

Ok, I'm wondering if someone can help me out here. I am trying to build the backside of the attack disk in vector but I am at a total loss of how to calculate the position of the ticks on the scales. I can plot a sine wave on paper but can't for the life of me figure out how to put the values on a wheel, i.e. right numbers at the right angles.

I have spent well over 2 hours on search engines and can point you to a dozen or more sites that have slide rules of all types and shapes for download, but no one discusses the math behind the scales.

I'm sure that at least several people on this board can do this in their sleep and if you would care to slide (ooh! a pun!) a few formulas my way I would be grateful. I will be sure to post my files when finished.

spugnoid.

[don1reed]

If I understand you correctly spugnoid...then,


draw straight lines on an "x", "y" axis,

let their intersection be called "o",

using "o" as the center of a circle, construct a circle.

draw parallel tangents from top and bottom of the circle.

Within those parallel tangents, construct said sine wave.

Now, from the center point of the circle draw a radius that would represent 0 deg. Let same radius represent 0 deg. of the sine wave. (drawn precisely between the parallel tangents).

Now draw a 45 deg. angle from "o" of the circle to it's circumference; from this point on the circle's circumference, continue drawing this radius making it also parallel to the afore mentioned tangents. You will now note that where this line intersects the sine wave, will also be the 45 deg. mark on the sine wave.

You are now free to continue drawing additional radii and their sinusoidal equivalents.

Sorry that I don't have my scanner hooked up or I'd send you a pic.

[joegrundman]

i don't really know what vector is, but i've made some of these disks before for the U-jagd tools mod, and I used a spreadsheet to produce all the appropriate degree deflections for the required mathematical formula

[spugnoid]

joegrundman, you wouldn't happen to still have those spreadsheets would you? don1reed, I think I understand what you are saying but I'm just not sure how to quite put it into practice.

I just don't know why I'm having such a hard time working this out. I'm an electrician for crying out loud. I'm supposed to know my trig functions inside out, although it has been a few years since electrical school.

Oh well, in the meantime I will keep looking and trying stuff.

Thanks for your input guys.


spugnoid

[Hitman]

I'm an electrician for crying out loud. I'm supposed to know my trig functions inside out, although it has been a few years since electrical school.


Wow...do electricians in your country study trigonometry? :huh:

No wonder we in Spain are nearly in the 3rd world :damn:

Joking aside, what I did was to use as template a circular ruler template I downloaded from the internet, and then I simply drew the lines with photoshop in a new transparent layer over the old ones, starting from the centre of the image.

[Puster Bill]

Glad to see this thread is active again.

As for making that device Hitman, I'm not entirely sure that there isn't some kind of cam mechanism involved. Look at the metallic radial arm, and the area where it's connected to the center of the disk. It looks like it might cam: The black plastic centerpiece isn't centered on the disk, and it's an odd shape.

That adds a whole level of difficulty, and you have to add the fact that even the stiffest cardboard makes a crappy cam.

Still, where there is a will, there is a way. I will take this under contemplation.

[Hitman]

Very nice picture.

This is a similar device to teh Angriffsscheibe, only it is more simplified and its use is exclusively for AOB. You can input enemy course and get the AOB (To set up the TDC) or input AOB and get the enemy course (For plotting an intercept).

[Silverleaf]

Hitman and company..

Got a few pics for you...Cigar ???

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/Im000201.jpg

Ohhh!!! Hitman goodness.....

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/Im000200.jpg

Front..

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/Im000198.jpg

Back...

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/Im000199.jpg

Took an hour and a half to finish it, went to Staples and had the transparency's made - and while waiting, thought I'll run over to Lowe's and pick up:

Hillman - Aluminum Threaded Post w/screw 3/8" Post - 80 cents

My last task is to build a support structure for the box, and add a couple decals on the front and top to finish the look. Any suggestions for the decals are most appreciated.

A special Kudos goes to Hitman for all the excellent work, and to klh for the extensive well-written manual. This community .. :rock:

Went together easily - once I referred to Puster's pics and Hitman's instructive pdf. I did leave the labels A&B on two of the pointers for reference until I figure out how to use it. If the ship is gonna go down, this bad boys coming with me!

Cheers,

R.S.

[Hitman]

Excellent idea :up:

A hint: Get a metal plaque like those to put in an office door with the lettering "ANGRIFFSSCHEIBE - KM 1940"

I have already version 2.0 of the Angriffsschibe, I'm sorry it has not arrived in time for you to build :oops:

On the other hand, the nice wheel posted by Mykhail some posts ago is already a WIP :)

[Silverleaf]

Awesome news on the current WIP. Please keep us updated, as your work is of excellent quality.

By the way, as an extra Kudos, when I took the transparency to Staples, I had a few employees asking me what it was for. When I showed them they all were very impressed.

[Jimbuna]

Now that really looks the business :up:

If you ever go into production i'll certainly be after one :yep:

[klh]

Well done! The bad news is - I don't smoke. :|\\ So how am I going to get a nice box like that?

[Silverleaf]

Thanks guys, work is proceeding on the box - will have an update shortly. 8)

As to finding a cigar box:

Try one of your local smoke shops that sell cigs and cigars. See if they have any small cigar boxes lying around. OR, and this is a trifle more expensive - if you find one you really like on display with cigars in it, they'll give you the box once you buy all the goodies inside.

..you could always give them to someone you know who does smoke.

Cheers,

[Silverleaf]

So, after 4 hours of work ... she's done:

First I created a plaque from scratch - added in rivets, gave it a weathered metal look, similar to what Hitman posted a few pages back, and added aproper font.

In my research to locate a better clearer logo, I discovered the proper name for it is KM Eagle Stamp. I could not find a clear image of it, BUT I sum that up to a major step by Auction houses and seller's of real artifacts from WWII Germany to prevent rampant "replica" exposure. Not that it will help much..

As an aside, I found something which I didn't know - and it might be old news to aficionados of WWII Germany History. Every Kriegsmarine (water) logo I found has the eagle looking to his right shoulder - every German Army (land) logo has the same eagle looking to his left shoulder. This applies doubly for police - land patrols left, shore patrols right Anyways, didn't mean to go off on a tangent there, but it was an interesting discovery for me. 8)...

The logo:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/Image4b.jpg

I added a small spacer on the back of the image, laminated both sides, and super glued it to the front:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/202.jpg

Next, I took a Sub emblem which I felt was appropriate, laminated and placed it on the top - to cover up the cigar logo - my printer didn't like the black - but it works:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/204.jpg

Next, I thought why not include some personal effects, things that would add to the mystique, and finish off the project. Everythings inside, and locked in place:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/205.jpg


In the tray on the right I've included copies of coins from the period, and an old well read letter sent to the sailor:


http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/207.jpg

The Whiz wheel removed so you can see how it's held in place. Yes, this is very crude, but it works quite nicely:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/208.jpg

Lastly, my big surprise. You may have already caught it..BUT..

As a tribute to everyone here whom adores screw-ups and the like, AND what Subsim thread would be complete without...

I found a passport image which just happens to have a soldier with the name, you guessed it: Bernhard !!

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/silverleaf1982/206.jpg

Many thanks again for all the work that went into making this possible. Your all top-notch in my book, and Merry Christmas !!

Cheers,

R.S.

[Jimbuna]

That looks really cool http://www.psionguild.org/forums/images/smilies/wolfsmilies/thumbsup.gif

[Hitman]

Wooooahhhh amazing stuff!!! :o :o

You know I found out already long ago that it's these things what make you enjoy the game 100% more than any other user :D All in-game tools are nice, clean and useful, but there's nothing like being able to have them in your hands. Wiz-wheels, recognition manuals, chronometer, tables...those details help getting the full inmersion in what you are doing :up:

[Hitman]

New wheel almost ready......:yeah:

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7163/sampleno4.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sampleno4.jpg)

[Pisces]

New wheel almost ready......:yeah:

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7163/sampleno4.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sampleno4.jpg):up: I like the grey covered areas on the pointer. Less chance of looking in the opposite direction as the target passes behind the back of your scope. :oops:

[Silverleaf]

That is quite nice, and looks top notch!

^5ss the Hitman...

[klh]

I'm looking forward to building this one too!

Now if I could only find a mechanical stopwatch for a reasonable price.

[don1reed]

Bravo, Silverleaf. Very creative. I stash all my "circular slide rules" in my sextant case. I'm not as ambitious as you. Well done.

-...-

As always, Hitman, your work is fascinating in the extreme!

Cheers,

[Puster Bill]

That dripping sound you hear is me salivating in anticipation of Hitman's new wheel.

[jasonb885]

Awesome.

I can't get image 1 to print properly, though. In Picasa 3, preview and the actual printed page both have it slightly cropped on the left side. It looked like the image is slightly off center relative to the other largest wheel, image 5, which prints just fine.

I messed with the printer settings and managed to get a printed copy with only a couple mm clippped, so I'll make do with a slightly lopsided wheel. It's the numbers that count.

Otherwise, no issues thus far. Have to get these laminated soon.

Thanks.

(I'm using the No SW rar. I imagine image 1 is the same in both RARs, though.)

[Alex3886]

Hi KLH.
I was wondering do you have that ship rec manual in pdf. or in some other kind of electronic format for download.

I want to make it myself, I saw your rec manual has the quick search tabs that is why I am asking you if you have an electronic copy of it.
If you have, can you please post it?
Thank you very much.

[klh]

I downloaded the recognition manual from a website that has long since ceased to exist. It's only good for stock SH3. I don't have the right to post it, but if you PM me with your email address, maybe I could help you.

[Sea Hawk]

New wheel almost ready......:yeah:

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7163/sampleno4.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sampleno4.jpg)
Is this wheel ready yet?
What will it do differant to the the Attack Disk?

PS Attack disk is excellent.

[Hitman]

The wheel is ready, but my printer broke some months ago and I have not been able to construct my own wheel yet :damn:, hence I haven't done a release because I didn't want to give away an untested item :nope:

What will it do differant to the the Attack Disk?


Not much, in fact it lacks the Vorhaltwinkel (Lead angle) feature. Basically this wheel allows you to:

-Convert relative target bearings to true target bearings
-Convert target course if known in AOB
-Secondarily, convert target AOB in target course

[Puster Bill]

Please tell us that you are going to make a backside to it similar to your previous one, but in the style of the new wheel.

Oh, and with an ST scale so we can manually do ranges and such...

[Hitman]

Sorry, but unfortunately not by now. :dead:

AFAIK the real wheel didn't have it, and adding a ST scale would mean lots of additional work which I don't have time for right now. But may be in the future :yep:

[Puster Bill]

Sorry, but unfortunately not by now. :dead:

AFAIK the real wheel didn't have it, and adding a ST scale would mean lots of additional work which I don't have time for right now. But may be in the future :yep:


OK, I won't beg for a second helping of free ice cream, you've done enough for the Subsim community already. Thanks again!

[Kaleun_Endrass]

Does anyone have a link or scans (with better resolution) of the original instruction manual (1942) Kapitänleutnant Hähl mentioned in his handbook?

[Hitman]

I have only some pictures of the original manual, which come from one that was sold on e-bay long ago. Hence the pictures only have the resolution that the seller made them, and do not cover all pages.

I you are interested in them, I will browse my archives and see if I can send them to you or put a link here for download.

:salute:

[Kaleun_Endrass]

That would be great! :yeah:

[Hitman]

Here you go: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=df7cd14ec26c3c90d8f14848abf485dde04e75f6 e8ebb871

:salute:

[Panser]

I'd like to say thank you to Hitman for the Angriffsscheibe template. I've been using the flash one for a while but figured I would get on much better with one I could actually hold, so I've made one gradually over the past two weeks. I have been using it about a week now, but I wasn't satisfied with the finish so I laminated all the wheels and pointers. It has to be said, it's certainly one of the most unusual things I've made, but strangely satisfying!

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/215/img00074.th.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/img00074.jpg/)

(I know disc B looks a little weird from 330° - 030°, but that's only because it curls slightly combined with the oblique angle of the photo)

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/9722/img00075j.th.jpg (http://img51.imageshack.us/i/img00075j.jpg/)

[Hitman]

Cheers mate :up:

Enjoy! :salute:

[Tweety]

This attack disk looks interesting.

I tried this link.

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=d...4e75f6e8ebb871 (http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=df7cd14ec26c3c90d8f14848abf485dde04e75f6 e8ebb871)

It doesn't work.

Where could I go and download and get an instruction manual for this attack disk.

Thanks

Tweety

[KL-alfman]

try Hitman's "KM_Wiz_Wheel"
it's a rar-file and can be found in the download section, if I remember correctly.

[Hitman]

Klh did a very comprehensive manual some time ago, here: http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=126824

[Hitman]

BTW I managed to add the other wiz-wheel to the game, and it will be part of my GUI mod when I release it :up:

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9818/preview2zq.jpg

[Tweety]

Thank you Hitman and KL-alfman,

I have tried the links

http://www.filefront.com/13402461/An...andbuch-3.pdf/ (http://www.filefront.com/13402461/Angriffsscheibe-Handbuch-3.pdf/)

http://hosted.filefront.com/HitmanPacificAc (http://hosted.filefront.com/HitmanPacificAc)

I also looked into the download section with no luck.

That is ok. I will wait until Hitman release his new mod.

That picture of the of the wiz-wheel looks real nice.
Another great looking mod on the way.:yeah:

Thanks

Tweety

[Pisces]

Beauty!!!

[Hitman]

OK, I have had this sitting around in my HDD for a long time because I was too busy to write a proper readme. So I have decided to release it with a crappy one :O: and let you enjoy it. This is the version 2.0 of the original Angriffschibe, with much improved graphics and sizes of the wheels.

http://www.mediafire.com/?mymjni5unxw

Happy hunting :salute:

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/4839/previewfu.jpg

[KL-alfman]

looks great!
btw, the pics of the real original "Angriffscheibe" are superb.

[Tweety]

Thats looks good Hitman.

Thanks for the upload.:yeah:

Now I'm off to practice and more practice.

btw, the pics of the real original "Angriffscheibe" are superb.


I agree as well.

Tweety

[BillCar]

Hitman, I'm VERY excited to try your new GUI. Do you know when it will be ready? I'm really looking forward to it!

[Hitman]

I have already decided the key features and tested them. Now the only thing that remains is putting it all together in the menu.ini and polishing off the graphics. May be it's ready by the end of this month, but if real life gets in the way it will be longer. :hmmm:

[verte]

Are there any screenshoots of your gui around? I'm also curious. The wiz-wheel in post #173 is very nice.

[Hitman]

The interface is right now full of placeholders, so there's not much to show. But it will be completed soon :up:

[BillCar]

Hitman, will you be using the telemeter markings from your optics mod?

Also, this is a bit off topic, but could you explain how to use the markings in the historical attack periscope? There are 4 dividing hashmarks on one side of the 10 marker, and 3 on the other. I figure that you're the best person to ask, and that this is maybe a good place to ask you, since you'll probably have it in your GUI!

[Hitman]

Bill, here are some previews finally: http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?p=1243520#post1243520

But it's still in early stage, it should look better when finished :)

how to use the markings in the historical attack periscope? There are 4 dividing hashmarks on one side of the 10 marker, and 3 on the other. I figure that you're the best person to ask, and that this is maybe a good place to ask you, since you'll probably have it in your GUI!

My research so far indicates that those marks frequently seen in flims of that era are probably FAKE for film purposes. Real, trustworthy pictures through periscopes or descriptions of reticles show a very different pattern.

But if that reticle you are referring to was reallly used, the best explanation I can find is that one part of the reticle was divided in grades (The one with 3 marks) and the other in milliradians (The one with 4 marks), allowing different uses.

With a milliradian reticle, like the one included in my previous mod, or in the incoming one, the formula to get range is:

Target heigth / Scale x 1000 = Range

[BillCar]

Neat! Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense to me. I wonder, is there a formula to calculate AOB using the hash marks that run on the horizontal plane? It seems like it should be possible, if you find the range, to then find the rough angle on bow - sort of like the slide rule in OLC. Do you know if this was done?

WOW, that GUI looks amazing!! :yeah::yeah::yeah: Seriously, that looks really, really well done. Great work! I am already excited!

[YuriJanssen]

I know this is a Major thread-necro but i thought making a new topic was not needed either.

I have made one of hitman's wheels and am trying to use it but i can't really seem to figure out (even after reading almost all the previous posts on here) how this thing is supposed to give targets course.

I've only made this to know what the targets course is, that will help me enough to line up 90 degree shots. but how do i do it?

as im doing it now:
-hold the wheel 180 facing up where the little arrow is too
-I turn the inner (yellow second to largest) wheel to the bearing my nose is pointing at. (with the outside numbers)
-After that i turn the big long pointer at the bearing i last spotted the ship at from my position, i use the numbrs on the biggest brown disk for this
-Then to finish up i turn the 'lage' red/green wheel so that the green and red arrow line up with the long pointer.

-i then take my course from the inner second to largest yellow wheel, using the inside numbers

I get really odd readings on what course he must be having, that are totally off (tested). i must be doing something horribly wrong but i can't seem to understand what.

Can anyone help me out?
Thanks!

[Jmellor1]

YuriJannsen,
Wonder who else is still using this wheel. I've made one of these about 3 months ago, It's a blast to use. The intercept technique works great. Follow the link in post 174 (from Pisces)for the handbook. It is in English and shows how much you can do with this thing. There is more than one way to get a target heading. (AOB or range/plotting)

John

[Fish In The Water]

^^^ Hi John, just wanted to officially welcome you to Subsim. Thanks for the input and hope you enjoy the site! :sunny:

[Pisces]

YuriJannsen,
Wonder who else is still using this wheel. I've made one of these about 3 months ago, It's a blast to use. The intercept technique works great. Follow the link in post 174 (from Pisces)for the handbook. It is in English and shows how much you can do with this thing. There is more than one way to get a target heading. (AOB or range/plotting)

JohnNo need to search everywhere anymore for this book. It's in the download section of SH3 here too now:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/downloads.php?do=file&id=3405

[Pisces]

I know this is a Major thread-necro but i thought making a new topic was not needed either.

I have made one of hitman's wheels and am trying to use it but i can't really seem to figure out (even after reading almost all the previous posts on here) how this thing is supposed to give targets course.

I've only made this to know what the targets course is, that will help me enough to line up 90 degree shots. but how do i do it?

as im doing it now:
-hold the wheel 180 facing up where the little arrow is too
-I turn the inner (yellow second to largest) wheel to the bearing my nose is pointing at. (with the outside numbers)
-After that i turn the big long pointer at the bearing i last spotted the ship at from my position, i use the numbrs on the biggest brown disk for this
-Then to finish up i turn the 'lage' red/green wheel so that the green and red arrow line up with the long pointer.

-i then take my course from the inner second to largest yellow wheel, using the inside numbers

I get really odd readings on what course he must be having, that are totally off (tested). i must be doing something horribly wrong but i can't seem to understand what.

Can anyone help me out?
Thanks!You cannot use the red/green line (which indicate 90 degrees AOB, angle on bow) to tell what course the target has. You have to look at how the ship is facing, and use that. Once you have the actual AOB set up, then you can look which course is the one that make you at cross angles to his course. Not before!

Personally I like to keep the N of north on the yellow disk pointing up. The brown disk I change as I change course.


1. Align your course (on the yellow disk) to the white triangle on the largest brown disk.

2. There are 2 sides to the long pointer, one end has a drawing of a boat with a black triangle on the bow, the other a black thick line on his aft. Choose the end like you are seeing the target, are you looking at his tail, or on his bow. Align that end with the bearing of the periscope/UZO/Binoculars on the brown disk.

3. Align the smaller disk (with "Lage" in red and green) to the long pointer with the actual angle as you see his bow. (if you are looking at an angle on his tail, consider the angle to the bow instead, so 180-AOB))

4. The pointer attached to the smallest disk has a triangle in a boat symbol, which points to the outer scale of the yellow disk. That is the target course!

Example:

1: Own course is 035. 35 on the outside scale of the yellow disk is against the white triangle on the brown disk.

2: Looking at peri/uzo/bino bearing 125, he is approaching so you choose the bow-end of the pointer. This end of the pointer should now point to 340 on the outer scale of the yellow disk.

3: I guesstimate (by eye) the angle on the bow to be 65, his right bow that is: Green 65 under the bow end of the long pointer.

4: The black 0 on the smallest disk is at 95 degrees on the inner scale of the yellow disk, and the black triangle on the attached pointer points to 275 of the outside scale. 275 is the target's course.

Ok, let's say you want to set a course that puts you at right angles to his course, in other words, his future bearing where his AOB is 90. This is the red or green thin arrow on the smallest disk. Since you are looking to his right bow you choose the green line at 90.

Move the pointer over to the green 90, while holding the other disks fixed to one another. The outside scale is the course to go: 005. While the long pointer now points to periscope/uzo/bino bearing 150. This is where you turn you periscope to, and press the "-" key to 'set heading to view'. (could be the "=" key, I keep mixing them up)

Let's see if you get the same readings now. :up:

[frenetico]

No need to search everywhere anymore for this book. It's in the download section of SH3 here too now:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/downloads.php?do=file&id=3405

Thanks

[Ilpalazzo]

Thinking of giving SH5 a try. I made one of these wheels once (came out pretty bad). Was thinking of trying this wheel thing again. Links in first post don't seem to work. Looks like I didn't hang onto the file either.

woop. just noticed the link on the previous page

[Joefour]

Hey Guys,

Is there some place I can find a printable version of this german whiz wheel some place so I can build myself one? The links that were there all seem to be broken. Can't find the files. I know I'm a bit late on the scene.

[Jimbuna]

All I can find is a link to a guide of its use:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/downloads.php?do=file&id=3405

Try sending Hitman a PM.

[Joefour]

Thanks!

[Joefour]

I just found a good link.
You can find the files necessary to build it in this thread:
http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=114351

It works!

[BigWalleye]

The latest version of everything you want is here:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/downloads.php?do=file&id=4221

You can add the tools to just about any supermod's GUI, or use the DIY set to add to your custom modlist. OR you can use a program that reads .tga files (like Paint.net) to open and print the components and make hand-held versions of everything. And there are several files in the Documentation folder with detailed instructions for using the tools and for conducting an approach using the tools.

Good hunting!

[Jimbuna]

Nice one :salute:

[skip]

Can anyone upload Hitmans original rear templates that he created for the german whiz wheel.

Many thanks

[Pisces]

Can anyone upload Hitmans original rear templates that he created for the german whiz wheel.

Many thanksIt is probably also in the Download section somewhere. But anyway, here it is (no swastika emblem).

https://ricojansen.nl/downloads/KM_Wiz_wheel_1.1_NO_SW.RAR

Don't forget the Angriff Scheibe Handbuch, linked in some earlier post of mine.

[skip]

Hmm cant seem to connect to the link you posted, any chance you could either relink or email me the files.

Once again, thanks :)

[Sailor Steve]

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/downloads.php?do=file&id=321

[Pisces]

Hmm cant seem to connect to the link you posted, any chance you could either relink or email me the files.

Once again, thanks :)
My website hoster had their glassfiber connections cut yesterday. Please try again later in the hope they fixed it already.

[niwo]

where do i find the old templates? this one is different and i want to download the old package with both sides. I have created the disc earlier, but the angriffskurs indicator is blocking the reading of the d pointer (bearing and lead angle).

EDIT: Oops i found it. nevermind

[alexv86]

Hey guys,

I can see this thread is pretty old, but does anyone still have any of the files for this? preferably like the two sided one in TWoS. It seems all the links at the top are dead.

I've been trying to get fluent with this tool, and having a real one would be awesome.

[Pisces]

The link in my message #199 works. At least if you use Chrome as browser. Maybe other browsers have a fit with my hoster's webserver. (Nothing I can do about though)

When all else fails there is also the Subsim download section, look at Sailor Steve's link a few up.