Any interest in an IS-WAS for SH3?

[Hitman]

I recently finished a printable is-was for SH4 that can be had in this topic here: http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=106923, and in the way I learnt a lot about this simple but sophisticated tools. I have seen several designs, and I am thinking of using my templates -it's just a little work now that the most time consuming part is done- to create a wiz-wheel specifically designed for SH3, i.e. with meters as measuring unit and with Kriegsmarine emblems and such stuff. The idea is to be able to get target's course and speed from two different range measurements at different time intervals -no matter which interval, does not need to be three minutes, and can be any other you prefer- and make targeting at 100% realism (No God eye) much easier.

I would start the task if there is interest in it, and also can do it to be used in the backside of Etchasketch's AOB finder if you like to.

So if you want one, post your request here. If enough people demand it, I will do it.:up:

[Meridian]

Put me down for one. I've lost interest in SH4 ATM. Much rather be using SH3 until things get fixed, but even then I think i'll still be using both.

[EmeAzul]

Hitman, I would definitely be interested. I've seen the one developed for SH4 and it looks pretty professional. This would be a very nice addition for the SH3 game. Hopefully others will feel the same way. Thanks for going to the effort of developing this for SH3. Cheers EmeAzul

[Bindolaf]

I'd be interested - if I could figure out how to use the thing :) I'll read more about it.

[Brag]

I've been a fan of wizwheels in RL. It would sure help in SHIII. Thanks for your enthusiasm for sharing.

[mr chris]

I would love one thanks for the hard work Hitman:up:
I have tryed to learn manual TDC for ages but failed. Now this sounds like a system that even i can use.

[shegeek72]

Count me in! :up:
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http://tarafoundation.org/sh3_wac_banner3.jpg

[Vacillator]

Me too please! As a lowly auto user this might help to shake me from my laziness and get the old grey matter working a bit more.

[_Seth_]

Im also in for this! :up:

[Hitman]

OK mates don't worry, it WILL be done:up:

I have already some ideas of how to make it look like, but if someone can provide pictures of Kriegsmarine wiz-wheels, slide rulers or other similar tools it would help giving it the proper "historic feel":yep:

Thanks

[Puster Bill]

OK mates don't worry, it WILL be done:up:

I have already some ideas of how to make it look like, but if someone can provide pictures of Kriegsmarine wiz-wheels, slide rulers or other similar tools it would help giving it the proper "historic feel":yep:

Thanks

Here are a couple of things just for 'look and feel' purposes:

http://www.sliderulemuseum.com/Nestler/S326_Nestler_20.jpg

http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1868372

Both should be at about the right time period.

Note the conversions on the back of the first one: It gives the M/S for 1 knot, 0.514.

[TarJak]

I'll take one. Thanks

[shegeek72]

Here are a couple of things just for 'look and feel' purposes:
Ack! I didn't learn how to use a slide rule in high school! :oops: Guess it'll be one of the many new things I've learned since playing SH3. :know:

http://tarafoundation.org/slide_rule2.jpg
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http://tarafoundation.org/sh3_invert_bnr.jpg

[Jimbuna]

My lad could do with some help in this department....so here's another expression of interest :arrgh!:

[funkster319]

Would love it! Can't wait 2 get my hands on one - Any ideas of ETA?

[Puster Bill]

Here are a couple of things just for 'look and feel' purposes:
Ack! I didn't learn how to use a slide rule in high school! :oops: Guess it'll be one of the many new things I've learned since playing SH3. :know:


Neither did I. It isn't that hard, though.

Check out this thread:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=112765

[Hitman]

UPDATE:

Don1reed posted this image of a REAL german wiz wheel, and the parts can easily be identified as matching with the fore side of the US MK3 course finder Kaptain Krunch did, so I bet the reverse side of the german wiz wheel has also exactly the same bearings/distance to speed converter:up: :up: Now I have a model to make the german wiz wheel for SH3, looks like only some cosmetics will need to be changed:up: :up:

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/8123/germanwizwheelmy5.jpg

[Hitman]

Any ideas of ETA?

When it's done :smug:

WIP shot:

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/4188/fullrulercolorwl6.jpg

[_Seth_]

Lookin' good, mate! good luck on your work! We are all waiting for this! :yep::up:

[funkster319]

Hitman

Any chance of a quick step by step guide to using the reverse side of your ISWAS? (The one for finding target speed etc) ?

Great work ...Looking forward to the SH3 templates. :rock:

[coronas]

Great work! One for me! And thanks in advance. Only an idea: Anybody can make a dragable rule like this at periscope station?

[jmr]

That's looking sweet, Hitman!


Anybody can make a dragable rule like this at periscope station?

Now THAT would be awesome. There was a similiar mod for SH2 shown here (http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=110748&highlight=whiz+wheel) but I guess it's not doable with SHIII/SHIV :hmm::hmm:

[Hitman]

Any chance of a quick step by step guide to using the reverse side of your ISWAS? (The one for finding target speed etc) ?

You have the tutorial in the HNSA site, but here's a quick explanation. It works like a charm if you did have a good AOB estimate (You can use my aspect ratio method) and only needs ONE observation if you have sonar contact:

1.- Raise scope, identify target, get range, guess AOB (Or calculate it based on aspect ratio), let's say you had: Bearing 50, Range 3000 metres, AOB 40 port. Start stopwatch.

2.- Turn the wheel to the back side. Align the "40" of the middle wheel with 3000 yards on the outer wheel ("Final range yards" scale).

3.- Get a new bearing, either by raising scope or by sonar periodical report. Let's say you now have the target at bearing 30. That is a 20 degree difference to the previous 50, right? Stop the chronometer now. You have recorded 1 minute and 10 seconds, for example.

4.- Without moving the wheel and leaving it exactly as you set it up in step 2 (Middle wheel at 40 aligned with outer wheel at 3000), take a look at the middle wheel at its "20" mark (Number of degrees the target has moved). It aligns with 1600 yards in the outer wheel, correct?

There you have it: In 1 minute and 10 seconds, the target has moved 1600 yards. Now to convert that to knots, move the inner wheel ("Time in minutes") until the 1-10 mark (Below the big 12) aligns with those 1600 yards of the outer wheel -and now also with the 20 degrees in the middle wheel- . The result can be read in the most outer ring (Speed in Knots) and is marked by the inner wheel arm. It should be showing now 4.1 Knots. Congratulations, you have now the speed:up:

Hope that helps:know:

[Hitman]

P.D. Forgot to add for all you SH3 readers: YES this is also how the german wheel will work! Lovely and damn easy, isn't it?:rock:

[mr chris]

Really looking forward to this Hitman.:up:

[jumpy]

following quite a long break from uboating I shall be watching this thread with interest ;)

I've already downloaded the b&w one from http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=106923
and plotted it out at work with nice paper, tracing paper then laminated. Currently I have a drawing pin holding the lot together, but I need to find something better than that to fix it together.

If only we could get Neal to have some of these groovy tools replicated and up for sale at subsim, dunno how much they'd cost (I've looked online but not found any for sale anywhere) but I'm sure they'd sell like hotcakes :up:

Perhaps if I have some spare time at work I could knock up a design in CAD. For the bearing bit at least anyway.

[Puster Bill]

following quite a long break from uboating I shall be watching this thread with interest ;)

I've already downloaded the b&w one from http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=106923
and plotted it out at work with nice paper, tracing paper then laminated. Currently I have a drawing pin holding the lot together, but I need to find something better than that to fix it together.

What I like to do is take two push pins, and using a pair of pliers remove the metal pin from one of them. I then take a pair of wirecutters and cut the pin short on the other one. Trim it down so that it fits in the hole left in the other pin with a minimal gap inbetween the two plastic parts.

Assemble the wheel on the one with the shortened pin, put a dab of superglue on the end of the exposed pin, then put the other plastic piece on it.

[Alyebard]

Any ideas of ETA?
When it's done :smug:

WIP shot:

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/4188/fullrulercolorwl6.jpg
AMAZING :up:

[funkster319]

:up: :rock: Hitman - You are a gentleman and a scolar ! Cheers for ISWAS step by step - Excellent work my friend.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR WORK AND KNOWLEDGE :lol:

[irish1958]

Jumpy wrote: If only we could get Neal to have some of these groovy tools replicated and up for sale at subsim, dunno how much they'd cost (I've looked online but not found any for sale anywhere) but I'm sure they'd sell like hotcakes :up:

This is a great idea. I would get one in a heartbeat, as I am "grafically" challenged.

[Hitman]

Getting closer....this weekend I will try to do print tests and build one. Do you prefer it released first one side then the other, or all in a single version, even if it comes later? :D

WIP:


http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2667/wipwizwheelgj1.jpg

[jumpy]

The answer is obvious....



Both of course! :lol:

[GT182]

Yeah, I'd love one too. Great work HM. :D

After using a bombdrop calculator wheel for B-17 FF for a few years, this would be very handy indeed for SH3. :up:

[Jimbuna]

Both together would be nice :up:

[Puster Bill]

Getting closer....this weekend I will try to do print tests and build one. Do you prefer it released first one side then the other, or all in a single version, even if it comes later? :D

Either would be fine. You sir are doing us a great service, so it would be presumptuous of me to tell you how to release it.

[coronas]

The answer is obvious....



Both of course! :lol:



:yep:

[Puster Bill]

No pressure, but I'm sure everyone is curious how it is coming Hitman.

[jmr]

*eagerly awaits new whiz wheel to add to collection*

:up:

[Hitman]

No pressure, but I'm sure everyone is curious how it is coming Hitman.


The front side is finished and I have printed it to see if I liked the colours and dimensions. It seems to look well, though I have not yet build the ful wheel in cardstock, just have printed the templates in DIN A4 sheets. I have just started the rear side, but I'm reorganizing a bit the scales to have it look a bit differently than the US thing and at the same time be a bit easier to use. For example, the middle wheel will have simply a 1-90º scale (Not the four rows for "bearing in degrees") but with more subdivisions, following the general look and precision of the front (known) side. Then the central wheel will be a bit larger and have an arm in the same style as the front side, with a transparency indicating speed with an arrow, not just with the whole arm like the US item. Free time depending, I could have the most done this week, but I would like to assemble it completely and do some pics of the process to add some instructions before making the templates available.

Cheers:up:

[jumpy]

^^
:up:
sweet *rubs hands together with glee*

[Wilcke]

Superb, well done, I have the IS-WAS, US version, done up in cardstock, nifty and astonishing tool.

What would it take to have replica's built and sold by SubSim, in order to make $$$$?

I would buy.....$$$$!

Wilcke

[jumpy]

Aside from manuracturing costs, I wonder if there's any kind of patent/copyright on such a tool? (either US or WW2 German version)
How would a design 'based upon' but not a direct replica fare?

Such a device is just asking for Onkle Neals' 'SubSim' logo if you ask me.

[Puster Bill]

Aside from manuracturing costs, I wonder if there's any kind of patent/copyright on such a tool? (either US or WW2 German version)
How would a design 'based upon' but not a direct replica fare?

Such a device is just asking for Onkle Neals' 'SubSim' logo if you ask me.
Chances are, if it was designed by a government agency, then it probably wouldn't be protected under copyright or a patent.

Even if it were, I doubt that Gemloid or it's German equivalent is going to come after us for copying something that they probably stopped making over 60 years ago.

[Hitman]

Don't worry guys, the idea of a subsi.com item in plastic is already being studied. It's a matter of getting reasonable costs. And as for the copyrights, the thing is just a wiz-wheel, the ruler itself can't be copyrighted. The specific design for the naval purposes, colours and such could eventually be copyrighted but I doubt it much. It is in fact a very simple tool.

UPDATE: This is how the rear side currently looks like. Unlike the US version, the bearing is outside and the central wheel has a double row (Inside and outside) of the range scale. Reason is the range is read two times, one with the outer wheel bearing scale, the second with the inner wheel time scale. With this new design you can have the range scale always next to the scales that are going to use it.

PIC REMOVED was too big, look further down to see a more recent update.

[ronbrewer]

This is some excellent work, Hitman, and I'm glad the option of buying the whiz wheel from subsim.com is being considered. I definitely would like to help provide you some return for the hard work that is going into the design and eventual production of the wheels.

Thanks,
Ron

[Puster Bill]

Awesome work Hitman. :up::up::up::up:

The only downside that I can see is that you are going to need the target to shift at least 6 degrees of bearing between range marks (a problem with any rule that doesn't have an ST scale).

The current rule I am using (A pocket sized Pickett N200-ES Trig) has both an S and an ST scale. I had to use the ST scale yesterday on a slow moving target, because the angle they had moved between my range marks was 5 degrees. I didn't need it to find the AOB, but distance target travelled. I was using 100 second intervals for my marks so that I could skip the meters travelled/seconds calculation. It just made the math easier.

For the AOB calculation you'd only need an ST scale if the target was coming pretty much directly at you or directly away from you.

Still, the US version didn't have an ST scale, so I wouldn't include it.

We just have to be aware that apparent target motion will have to equal at least 6 degrees to get a target distance 'distance travelled', so that we can calculate speed.

[Hitman]

I definitely would like to help provide you some return for the hard work that is going into the design and eventual production of the wheels.


If it finally goes into production, it will be a product completely for the support of subsim.com running costs. I do not want a single cent of it, like I already did with the PA mod. All those things are simply ways of contributing keeping this excellent site up and running. Hosting costs exceed 500$ a month:o and in months when donations or sales via the store do not reach that, the rest comes out entirely of Neal's own pocket:88) Thank you anyway for your interest and support:up:

The only downside that I can see is that you are going to need the target to shift at least 6 degrees of bearing between range marks (a problem with any rule that doesn't have an ST scale).


Yes, as you say that seems to happen also with the MK3 US sub attack course finder. Probably the less than 5 degress moving targets were neglected due to their low speed making them much easier to hit.:hmm:

[Wilcke]

Thank you sir, premature I know but my CC is at the ready!:up:

Wilcke

[Hitman]

....and probably the last update prior to a formal release, so anyone can comment and say what could be improved:up:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/6038/fullradpreviewwv3.jpg

[jmr]

Hot damn I can't wait for it!

[TarJak]

Looks good to me. Can't wait to be in wizzwheel heaven.:up:

[Puster Bill]

One small suggestion: Make a version of the inner wheel without the swastika, for the benefit of our bretheren in countries where that is verboten.

It looks great Hitman!

:rock:

[poor sailor]

Nice work! Have a question about how to using this wheel, is this described in Paul Wasserman's guide? I'm now using the 90degrees rule, and tried the wheel method (From Wazoo moanual) long time ago, the only thing I dislike is that eels hit the target in middle of ship always. The thing I like in 90degrees rule is to I may to decide where I want to hit the boat. Is there a chance to use this wheel and also decide where torpedo will hit? Maybe I'm wrong in whole thing about It, and looking for someone tell me a short user guide and possibility of this mod! Thanks.

[Hitman]

is this described in Paul Wasserman's guide?

AFAIK it has no relation with Wazoo's excellent tutorial. The purpose of this tool is to get target course, bearing and speed from scope observations WITHOUT any need to plot anything in the map.

The wheel has already been released, check the topic in this very same forum:up:

[shegeek72]

is this described in Paul Wasserman's guide?
AFAIK it has no relation with Wazoo's excellent tutorial. The purpose of this tool is to get target course, bearing and speed from scope observations WITHOUT any need to plot anything in the map.

The wheel has already been released, check the topic in this very same forum:up:
Sorry, but I cannot find where to d/l with wheel. :oops:
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http://tarafoundation.org/frauleinvomAmtsm.jpg (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fr%C3%A4ulein)

[Hitman]

It's here:

http://www.subsim.com/radioroom/showthread.php?t=114351

Happy hunting:up:

[xlbob]

I downloaded it ... Thanks very much for your effort Hitman :up:

[shegeek72]

My thanks, too! :sunny:
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http://tarafoundation.org/sh3_wac_banner3.jpg

[kevtherev]

Any chance of a quick step by step guide to using the reverse side of your ISWAS? (The one for finding target speed etc) ?

You have the tutorial in the HNSA site, but here's a quick explanation. It works like a charm if you did have a good AOB estimate (You can use my aspect ratio method) and only needs ONE observation if you have sonar contact:

1.- Raise scope, identify target, get range, guess AOB (Or calculate it based on aspect ratio), let's say you had: Bearing 50, Range 3000 metres, AOB 40 port. Start stopwatch.

2.- Turn the wheel to the back side. Align the "40" of the middle wheel with 3000 yards on the outer wheel ("Final range yards" scale).

3.- Get a new bearing, either by raising scope or by sonar periodical report. Let's say you now have the target at bearing 30. That is a 20 degree difference to the previous 50, right? Stop the chronometer now. You have recorded 1 minute and 10 seconds, for example.

4.- Without moving the wheel and leaving it exactly as you set it up in step 2 (Middle wheel at 40 aligned with outer wheel at 3000), take a look at the middle wheel at its "20" mark (Number of degrees the target has moved). It aligns with 1600 yards in the outer wheel, correct?

There you have it: In 1 minute and 10 seconds, the target has moved 1600 yards. Now to convert that to knots, move the inner wheel ("Time in minutes") until the 1-10 mark (Below the big 12) aligns with those 1600 yards of the outer wheel -and now also with the 20 degrees in the middle wheel- . The result can be read in the most outer ring (Speed in Knots) and is marked by the inner wheel arm. It should be showing now 4.1 Knots. Congratulations, you have now the speed:up:

Hope that helps:know:

I have printed out your excellent wheels, assembled them (I presume that the front wheels and the back wheels can be assembled as seperate entities) and followed the examples for 'Course Finder' as in the HSNA doc. All well and good. I now tried to follow your 'quick instruction' as to estimate speed. I find however that I cannot discover where the "40" and "20" are located on the middle wheel, nor can I locate the 4.1 knots on the most outer ring. Should this not be the center ring on the middle wheel as this is the only place which bears any resemblance to '4.1'. Sorry if these sound a little silly but I am totally confused. :damn: :damn:
Perhaps if you have the time a pictorial description would help.
BTW many thanks for all your trouble in this area, great job!

[Puster Bill]

OK, either I am going nuts, or a few posts have disappeared. :hmm:

If the pics I posted were too big, my apologies.

EDIT: Oops, I was looking in the wrong thread.

[Hitman]

Yes they can be separated but they look better when combined. As for the pictorial example, look at this:

- The middle wheel 40 mark (blue) aligns with the 3000 yards mark in the outer wheel (red). That's what we set up.

- As a result, the 20 mark (Pink) in the same middle wheel gives us a read of 1600 in the outer wheel (Cyan). That's what we read.

- Moving the inner wheel 1 minute and 10 seconds mark (yellow) to align with that distance (1600), we can read in the outer scale the result 4.1 (Hidden here by the protruding arm of the inner wheel).

Hope that helps. the german wheel works the same, but the scales are in different places.:arrgh!:

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8706/examplerh5.jpg

[kevtherev]

....and probably the last update prior to a formal release, so anyone can comment and say what could be improved:up:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/6038/fullradpreviewwv3.jpg
I am afraid that my wheel looks exactly as the one quoted in this post and not the one that you show in your last post ! They are totally different but I suppose you could link me to the B/W one that you show in quote then I could use that one.
BTW thanks for your rapid response, much better than the response from UBI for patch 1.3 for SH4 !!

[Hitman]

LOL then the problem is that you have been trying to understand a quick-guide I gave for the US wheel and apply it for the german wheel:lol: No wonder you got confused and did not find the numbers:lol:

In the german one, the blue "40" is in the external magenta wheel. The red "3000" is in the centre wheel, duplicated in the exterior and interior section of the same wheel (In the centre is the speed scale). The inner time wheel is exactly the same in both wheels except for the form of the speed pointer.

So you align the 3000 in the middle wheel with the 40 in the exterior wheel. Then the 1-10 of the inner wheel with the 1600 of the middle wheel. That's the reason the distance scale is duplicated in the middle wheel, so you have it easier to read the 40 vs. the 3000 in the exterior and the 1600 vs. the 1-10 in the interior one.

[kevtherev]

O/K, now I have got it, I think. Silly me,:oops: trust the Germans (or Americans) to get things a#se about face. In the meantime I racked up a quick example (US wheel) in Paint Shop from your picture. Now when I compare the readings between the two I get a 0.4 knt increase in speed on the German one against the US one. Could be my assembly is not quite correct or it could be that the German one is a little faster !! vorsprung durch teknik. :hmm:
Still, many thanks, can now go ahead with speeeeed calculations. :up:

[Puster Bill]

O/K, now I have got it, I think. Silly me,:oops: trust the Germans (or Americans) to get things a#se about face. In the meantime I racked up a quick example (US wheel) in Paint Shop from your picture. Now when I compare the readings between the two I get a 0.4 knt increase in speed on the German one against the US one. Could be my assembly is not quite correct or it could be that the German one is a little faster !! vorsprung durch teknik. :hmm:
Still, many thanks, can now go ahead with speeeeed calculations. :up:

There should be a difference: The US wheel uses yards for it's distance calculation, the German one meters.

If a target is going 4 units per second, the speed is about 7.2 knots if units = yards, and about 7.8 knots if units = meters.

[Hitman]

There should be a difference: The US wheel uses yards for it's distance calculation, the German one meters.

If a target is going 4 units per second, the speed is about 7.2 knots if units = yards, and about 7.8 knots if units = meters.

You can learn as much as Puster Bill, but you can't be faster:lol:

What he said:yep:

[Puster Bill]

You can learn as much as Puster Bill, but you can't be faster:lol:

What he said:yep:

Can't be fatter, either. :D

[kevtherev]

O/K, now I have got it, I think. Silly me,:oops: trust the Germans (or Americans) to get things a#se about face. In the meantime I racked up a quick example (US wheel) in Paint Shop from your picture. Now when I compare the readings between the two I get a 0.4 knt increase in speed on the German one against the US one. Could be my assembly is not quite correct or it could be that the German one is a little faster !! vorsprung durch teknik. :hmm:
Still, many thanks, can now go ahead with speeeeed calculations. :up:

There should be a difference: The US wheel uses yards for it's distance calculation, the German one meters.

If a target is going 4 units per second, the speed is about 7.2 knots if units = yards, and about 7.8 knots if units = meters.

I would have thought that, with the US wheel being constructed to US standard measurements and the German wheel to metric, as time, angles and speed (Knts) are the same standard for each countrythen the calculated speed should be the same in each case. Surely the difference should lay with the graduation spacings on each wheel type ? :hmm: and they are constructed to take length measurements into account. This length measurement seems to me to be the only 'variable' factor between each type of wheel. Or am I missing something very obvious ??

[Puster Bill]

O/K, now I have got it, I think. Silly me,:oops: trust the Germans (or Americans) to get things a#se about face. In the meantime I racked up a quick example (US wheel) in Paint Shop from your picture. Now when I compare the readings between the two I get a 0.4 knt increase in speed on the German one against the US one. Could be my assembly is not quite correct or it could be that the German one is a little faster !! vorsprung durch teknik. :hmm:
Still, many thanks, can now go ahead with speeeeed calculations. :up:
There should be a difference: The US wheel uses yards for it's distance calculation, the German one meters.

If a target is going 4 units per second, the speed is about 7.2 knots if units = yards, and about 7.8 knots if units = meters.
I would have thought that, with the US wheel being constructed to US standard measurements and the German wheel to metric, as time, angles and speed (Knts) are the same standard for each countrythen the calculated speed should be the same in each case. Surely the difference should lay with the graduation spacings on each wheel type ? :hmm: and they are constructed to take length measurements into account. This length measurement seems to me to be the only 'variable' factor between each type of wheel. Or am I missing something very obvious ??

Yes, you are missing something.

The conversion from meters per second to knots is about .515, and the conversion from yards per second is about .56.

If you put the indicator for the American wheel at 1 knot, you will see that the distance reads 5600. If you do the same for the German wheel, you will see that the distance reads 5150. Both are indicating the same distance, but in different units.

That is because the base unit of distance is different (meters and yards), but the speed result is in the same measurement (knots) for both wheels.

A ship that travels 10 meters per a given unit of time is going faster than a ship that travels 10 yards in the same amount of time.

Make sense now?

[ReallyDedPoet]

Nice work on this:yep:

RDP

[kevtherev]

[/quote]

Make sense now?[/quote]

Yes thank you very much, nice information. Will of course be trying speed calcs. sometime in the future, not tomorrow as it is Fathers day here in Germany and that mostly means 'one big p##s up (drinking session)' so no SHlll for me.
Once again, thanks !!:up: