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Old 01-03-08, 09:45 AM   #16
Savvy
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Default I'm back!




Hi all,
Sorry the postings are a bit messy here but i'll get the hang of it!
Lot's done but nothing to see really. The 'lookout' perched at the top of the periscope took about 2 hours of grinding/cutting to get him to fit around the scope. I've added a mass of etch to the decks, again very time consuming.

More to follow now that i'm up and running again.
Siara, the flood/drain template turned up this morning, Thank You very much for that.

Sav.
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Old 01-03-08, 09:53 AM   #17
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No problem Savvy.

The watchman on the periscope its realy nice , and i think it was worth the effort you put in.
Keep it up!
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Old 01-03-08, 01:55 PM   #18
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Hello Chaps,

With a view of cutting costs on this build i've decided to try and open up ALL the flood/drain holes provided by Revell. Most of these are straight forward enough, but the 'grill' type vents on the lower hull, stern and bow, are a different matter!
Note, when i say all, i mean the ones that are specific to U-69 as far as my limited ref (Read, 1 photo of u-99 which is/was U-69) for this boat have revealed.
So far all is well but there is a long way to go yet








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Old 01-08-08, 08:50 AM   #19
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Hi all,

Having trawled through a multitude of photos of U-Boats, specifically looking at the the 'oil-canning' effect that is being seen on a lot of builds going on at the moment (Mine inluded) i've come to the conclusion that this effect is being overdone.
This appears to be more so on the pressure hull and saddle tanks where in the photo's that i have seen the effect is very subtle.

So with a half round craft blade i set out to simulate this effect. The pressure hull itself will have very little in the way of the dents and creases seen on the tanks.

Comments are welcomed, good or bad as this is only my personal oppinon/observation in this particular area.




















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Old 01-08-08, 10:56 AM   #20
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You are well ahead of me Sav.
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Old 01-12-08, 07:54 PM   #21
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Hello All,

Great work on the build of this Revell model by the way. I've been following this thread and the "other" big Revell VIIC thread and have started working on the kit I received for Christmas. I just have a couple of questions. Maybe I haven't been reading clearly enough but here goes:

-Did the early U-552 have a wooden deck or metal? I was under the impression that the earlier boats were metal, and that it was determined more economical to use wood only later in the war.

-What method do you all prefer for the drain/flood/vent holes? I've been using a Dremel #106 (ball tip etching thingy) to rough it out from behind and then sanding and sanding and sanding....

I think that's all I have in the order of questions. I'm planning on ordering aftermarket PE, accessories, etc. because with this massive of a model, I want to do it right. Okay then, thanks for your input.

Adam
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Old 01-13-08, 09:17 AM   #22
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Hi Adam,

I'm no U-Boat expert but i have put in a lot of time and effort to find out as much as i could prior to starting U-69, indeed this is still ongoing as thing crop up as the biuld progresses.

I can say with some confidence that the early boats, U-552 included, did have wooden decks although i'm sure there are people around here that could prove me wrong!

I also used a ball tip thingy, don't know what size as it's the only one i had, so thats what i used. I did find as i got more confident with it that i could take the plastic almost right down to the flood hole, as they are quite deep on the outside.
All i did then was to remove the wafer thin 'skin' of plastic with new scalpel blade.

Just one word of caution, use a low speed setting with your drill as a high speed tends to just melt the plastic and block up the ball tip thingy.

Post pics of your build here for us to see.

Sav.
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Old 01-13-08, 12:03 PM   #23
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Thans for the help Savvy. I don't know where I heard that the metal decks were used. It's probably a shipyard specific thing really. I do plan on using the wooden deck just because of the fact that the Nautilus pieces look so damn good from what I've seen.

As for the holes, it sure is a slow process. I have a Dremel Stylus (cordless) which I bought specifically for this build. I use it on setting 4 (about 12-15000 rpm) and that works good enough. When I get down to where I'm just through the plastic and the hole is open, I start sanding with heavy grit paper to create the thinness to the hull that is so desireable.

When I have pictures to show, I'll post them. It's a very slow process for me because I have about an hour a week to work on it.

Thanks Again,
Adam
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Old 01-14-08, 12:46 PM   #24
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Helloooo,

Small update.
I've added extra welds to the hull using, wait for it, 3D decals Yes thats right, 3D decals. They are made by Archer Fine Transfers and are brilliant. I used set number 7 (I think?) Surface details perfect weld beads. You use them in the same way you do all decals except they go on before the paint! They look a bit naff in my photo's, partly due to the fact that they look like felt tip pen before they are painted, but mostly because i can't take a photo to save my life!! They also make in various scales lines of rivets, fasteners, casting numbers, cloth texture etc, etc.

Also, i have scribed in the flood/blow vents on the saddle tanks as they appear in the photo of U-69/99 in the book Anatomy of the ship.....blah...blah...

Sav

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Old 01-14-08, 01:44 PM   #25
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Its begining to take shape.
Nice welds Savvy. Ive done the rethink on mine welds , and probably im gonna use the filler or miliput.

Good going with the slots mate.
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Old 01-14-08, 02:01 PM   #26
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Thanks for your comments Siara.

Take a look at this http://www.armorama.co.uk/modules.ph...ontent&id=2764 it shows the weld beads painted and dry-brushed, it looks a million times better than anything i could pull off

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Old 01-14-08, 02:19 PM   #27
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Thats a good idea , certain to be timesaver , and looks realy neat. To be honest with You it looks to neat , even by german standards.
Mine are going to be more rough if you know what i mean.

I tried masking both sides of the weld with tamiya tape , leaving 1/3 mm gap between which i fill with filler. Then before it dries out i rough it up with the blade , creating weld like line. If its done in short sections at the time , can create good weld effect. After it dries delicate sanding with 1500 grade sandpaper , primer , and its ready. Im gonna go this root.
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Old 01-15-08, 11:38 AM   #28
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Default It's a U-Boat!!

Ok Chaps,

I now have what looks like a Submarine

This is all just dry fitted together as wanted to see how well the decks fitted the hull. Perfectly, is the answer to that question. Secondly i wanted to see just how much can be seen through the flood holes. Answer, not bloody lot!!

With this in mind i will install a basic pressure hull with all pipework and fittings roughed out with various bits and pieces, cut down Bic biros, drinking straws and a few basic shapes made out of the waste from the deck sections. Trust me,
you really can't see enough to warrant a scratch fest.

Sav.

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Old 01-15-08, 12:19 PM   #29
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Realy good Savvy. The deck its tasty.
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Old 01-16-08, 11:27 AM   #30
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Default Pressure Hull

Yesterday i said i would be making a basic pressure hull.

Well, you really can't get much more basic than this, but it really does work and goes to show just how little can be seen of it.

I started by drawing around the deck sections on to some thin plastic sheet.
I then made up some simple angle brackets made from more sheet, this was then scored with a knife and then bent to 90 degrees. These were then super glued to the bow and stern sections of the hull. The mid section 'shelves' were just glued to the inside face of the saddle tanks again with scraps of sheet.

Then i trimmed around the sections drawn up earlier until they were a snug fit, easy!!

On to this i will glue various bit's of rubbish that resembles the fittings found in this area.

Sav.







PS You can just see in one of the pix that i have added the drip channels. I made these from 0.8mm quarter round styrene.
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