The DIY thread

Betonov · 02-19-15, 04:25 PM

Didn't know where to post this so I just started the ''Subsim mini instructables'' thread. Where we trade project ideas, project help and show off the finished product.

So I got this as a gift a few years ago and I finally decided to rebuild the handle.

Me and Oberon decided that it's most probably a Yugoslav M1924 bayonet. Not confirmed though.

My father (since a have an un-natural fear of rotary saws) cut these pieces of walnut wood for me. I chose walnut because it was lying around the garage and it was dark in color.

The trick is to cut a milimeter larger than it would be and just sand away until it fits. I also had a small step to consider here.
And soon you have a nice raw fit.

I used two small screws to tighten it to the metal one half at a time and just used a wood rasp to slowly shape it following the metal contour and a feel for how my hand would grab it.
And I got this.

This picture show them just held together with my hand, screws taken out.

I glued them together with a poliester fibreglass putty I ''acquired'' from my previous workplace. Lovely stuff, holds together better than any glue, does not run and does not crack. Riveting would make me screw it up badly, so I cheated with glue

I wont polish or lacquer it so it looks worn but I am tempted to put 4 small screws where the rivets would have been

Jimbuna · 02-19-15, 04:44 PM

That's a pretty good restoration Anze

Sailor Steve · 02-19-15, 04:49 PM

Looks good so far.

Rockstar · 02-19-15, 04:58 PM

If the glue is going to do the job of fastening the grips to the tang. I assume then the bayonet is just for show and screws are nothing more than eye candy. So instead of screws, you could find rivets which look similar to the original, cut the heads off and glue them on the grip as well.

Betonov · 02-19-15, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockstar

If the glue is going to do the job of fastening the grips to the tang. I assume then the bayonet is just for show and screws are nothing more than eye candy. So instead of screws, you could find rivets which look similar to the original, cut the heads off and glue them on the grip as well.

That would work nicely. And I got to remember the word ''tang''

I'm regretting not drilling trough the wood and making the two steel pins I used to stabilize the handle when gluing go trough and then hammer them in to a rivet shape.

And the glue is one of the most powerful on the planet. I trust it more than a rivet.

Rockstar · 02-19-15, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Betonov

That would work nicely. And I got to remember the word ''tang''

I'm regretting not drilling trough the wood and making the two steel pins I used to stabilize the handle when gluing go trough and then hammer them in to a rivet shape.

And the glue is one of the most powerful on the planet. I trust it more than a rivet.

Got the idea of cutting the heads off fasteners and gluing them on from a drug runner in Miami back in '84.

Betonov · 02-19-15, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockstar

Got the idea of cutting the heads off
from a drug runner in Miami back in '84.

Fixed

Rockstar · 02-19-15, 07:47 PM

Back in the day there were certain rifles came from the factory a little too clean and shiney. Soldiers would sometimes take old motor oil and wipe down the wood stock with it. You could try that out on a test piece of wood and see if it might give it that weathered and battle hardened look. If thats what you're looking for, personally I kinda like the contrast of old and new.

Red October1984 · 02-19-15, 11:17 PM

Depending on what kind of cashflow I get going on in the next two weeks I may paint my car's brake calipers red.

So may or may not have a post in here with a project.

I like the idea of the thread though.

Lionclaw · 02-20-15, 03:13 AM

Nice fix Betonov.

I got a floor lamp that I got for free a couple of months ago, since it doesn't work. I just left it standing somewhere wondering what to do with it.

I recently got interested in electronics, so I took it apart.

I measured different stuff with the multimeter, I noticed that this fuse has blown, since there's no continuity through it.

Not sure if I should just solder in a new fuse and try if it works or analyse the other parts and see if there's something else broken.

Betonov · 02-20-15, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lionclaw

Not sure if I should just solder in a new fuse and try if it works or analyse the other parts and see if there's something else broken.

If you're sure the fuse is busted replace it and if that won't work keep looking.

Rockstar · 02-20-15, 11:54 AM

Meh, I'd ditch the potentiometers and wire in two toggle switches to turn the lights on and off. And whats with the weird looking end on the plug, thats probably why it doesn't work.

Wolferz · 02-20-15, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockstar

Meh, I'd ditch the potentiometers and wire in two toggle switches to turn the lights on and off. And whats with the weird looking end on the plug, thats probably why it doesn't work.

Standard 50's/60's 90 degree male plug.

I'm with you...
What's with all the chokes , pots and caps, does the thing whistle Dxie on an AM radio

Stealhead · 02-21-15, 04:03 AM

I can say with 100% certainty that that is an early Mauser pattern bayonet the exact type though hard to say in that condition. It may be a Spanish Mauser as well darn near the same except for different markings.

I can think of three Mauser bayonets that have nearly same basic pattern Chilean, Spanish and Yugoslavian. Though logic would dictate that most likely its a Yugo. I forgot Polish and Czech so it could easily be one of those two come to think of it.

In this case due to contion the scabbard will be the best indicator doubt that you can make out any markings on the blade itself.

I'd use just two screws as all the old Mauser pattern used two but up to you I recon.

Betonov · 02-21-15, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealhead

I can say with 100% certainty that that is an early Mauser pattern bayonet the exact type though hard to say in that condition. It may be a Spanish Mauser as well darn near the same except for different markings.

I also showed it to a collector and he also said a Mauser design, to quote him

Quote:

An abused and over sharpened Yugoslav Mauser bayonet

The ''abusive sharpening'' also explains why the blade narrows (Mauser is same width down the length) and why the groove extends to the tip (A good Mausers stops 5cm before the tip)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealhead

In this case due to contion the scabbard will be the best indicator doubt that you can make out any markings on the blade itself.

There isn't even a trace of markings left. The bayonet had to be lying in the ground for a decade or two.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealhead

I'd use just two screws as all the old Mauser pattern used two but up to you I recon.

I'm thinking of soaking 4 iron pushpins in salt water for a month and then just pushing them into the handle to make it look like a worn out rivet

02-19-15, 04:25 PM	#1
Betonov Navy Seal Join Date: May 2009 Location: Slovenia Posts: 8,647 Downloads: 26 Uploads: 0	The DIY thread Didn't know where to post this so I just started the ''Subsim mini instructables'' thread. Where we trade project ideas, project help and show off the finished product. So I got this as a gift a few years ago and I finally decided to rebuild the handle. Me and Oberon decided that it's most probably a Yugoslav M1924 bayonet. Not confirmed though. My father (since a have an un-natural fear of rotary saws) cut these pieces of walnut wood for me. I chose walnut because it was lying around the garage and it was dark in color. The trick is to cut a milimeter larger than it would be and just sand away until it fits. I also had a small step to consider here. And soon you have a nice raw fit. I used two small screws to tighten it to the metal one half at a time and just used a wood rasp to slowly shape it following the metal contour and a feel for how my hand would grab it. And I got this. This picture show them just held together with my hand, screws taken out. I glued them together with a poliester fibreglass putty I ''acquired'' from my previous workplace. Lovely stuff, holds together better than any glue, does not run and does not crack. Riveting would make me screw it up badly, so I cheated with glue I wont polish or lacquer it so it looks worn but I am tempted to put 4 small screws where the rivets would have been

02-19-15, 04:44 PM	#2
Jimbuna Chief of the Boat Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 250 metres below the surface Posts: 180,980 Downloads: 63 Uploads: 13	That's a pretty good restoration Anze __________________ Wise men speak because they have something to say; Fools because they have to say something. Oh my God, not again!! GWX3.0 Download Page - Donation/instant access to GWX (Help SubSim)

02-19-15, 04:49 PM	#3
Sailor Steve Eternal Patrol Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: High in the mountains of Utah Posts: 50,369 Downloads: 745 Uploads: 249	Looks good so far. __________________ “Never do anything you can't take back.” —Rocky Russo

02-19-15, 04:58 PM	#4
Rockstar Rear Admiral Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Zendia Bar & Grill Posts: 11,811 Downloads: 10 Uploads: 0	If the glue is going to do the job of fastening the grips to the tang. I assume then the bayonet is just for show and screws are nothing more than eye candy. So instead of screws, you could find rivets which look similar to the original, cut the heads off and glue them on the grip as well. __________________ Guardian of the honey and nuts Let's assume I'm right, it'll save time.

02-19-15, 07:47 PM	#8
Rockstar Rear Admiral Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Zendia Bar & Grill Posts: 11,811 Downloads: 10 Uploads: 0	Back in the day there were certain rifles came from the factory a little too clean and shiney. Soldiers would sometimes take old motor oil and wipe down the wood stock with it. You could try that out on a test piece of wood and see if it might give it that weathered and battle hardened look. If thats what you're looking for, personally I kinda like the contrast of old and new. __________________ Guardian of the honey and nuts Let's assume I'm right, it'll save time. Last edited by Rockstar; 02-20-15 at 01:37 AM.

02-19-15, 11:17 PM	#9
Red October1984 Airplane Nerd Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 6,241 Downloads: 115 Uploads: 0	Depending on what kind of cashflow I get going on in the next two weeks I may paint my car's brake calipers red. So may or may not have a post in here with a project. I like the idea of the thread though. __________________

02-20-15, 03:13 AM	#10
Lionclaw Ace of the Deep Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,006 Downloads: 5 Uploads: 0	Nice fix Betonov. I got a floor lamp that I got for free a couple of months ago, since it doesn't work. I just left it standing somewhere wondering what to do with it. I recently got interested in electronics, so I took it apart. I measured different stuff with the multimeter, I noticed that this fuse has blown, since there's no continuity through it. Not sure if I should just solder in a new fuse and try if it works or analyse the other parts and see if there's something else broken.

02-20-15, 11:54 AM	#12
Rockstar Rear Admiral Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Zendia Bar & Grill Posts: 11,811 Downloads: 10 Uploads: 0	Meh, I'd ditch the potentiometers and wire in two toggle switches to turn the lights on and off. And whats with the weird looking end on the plug, thats probably why it doesn't work. __________________ Guardian of the honey and nuts Let's assume I'm right, it'll save time.

02-21-15, 04:03 AM	#14
Stealhead Navy Seal Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Kentucky Posts: 5,421 Downloads: 85 Uploads: 0	I can say with 100% certainty that that is an early Mauser pattern bayonet the exact type though hard to say in that condition. It may be a Spanish Mauser as well darn near the same except for different markings. I can think of three Mauser bayonets that have nearly same basic pattern Chilean, Spanish and Yugoslavian. Though logic would dictate that most likely its a Yugo. I forgot Polish and Czech so it could easily be one of those two come to think of it. In this case due to contion the scabbard will be the best indicator doubt that you can make out any markings on the blade itself. I'd use just two screws as all the old Mauser pattern used two but up to you I recon. Last edited by Stealhead; 02-21-15 at 04:20 AM.