[REL] Kriegsmarine Wiz-Wheel templates released!

[GoldenRivet]

thansk hitman thats exactly what I did and it worked out fine, looking forward to the turorials, no rush mate.

[Johann Vilthomsen]

Dear Hitman, can you translate to spanish the tutorial????

More than nothing ( ) because my English is Tarzan level, you know...
My Tarzan, you Jane, Tarzan is an strong boy, Tarzan open a new hole.

And for every peña from spain.

Congratulations for your improved work.!!!!

Best Regards

Johann Vilthomsen

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by Hitman

I apologize for the inconveniencies

Well, at least when Onkel Karl asks me why I missed all those tankers, I'll have a good excuse!

Thanks again Hitman, excellent job like I said.

[jmr]

I'm a little confused about the instructions with a couple of the transparancies.

-B should be glued on the backside of disc 3 (Lage) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target course in the middle wheel (2)

So B is immovable? Does it have to be aligned with disc 3 at a specific point, say 0 degrees?

-D should be glued on the backside of disc 7 (Zeit) so that only a part of it
protrudes. It serves to indicate target speed in the middle wheel (6)

Same thing here. Should it be aligned with the red hash mark?

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by jmr

I'm a little confused about the instructions with a couple of the transparancies.

So B is immovable? Does it have to be aligned with disc 3 at a specific point, say 0 degrees?

Same thing here. Should it be aligned with the red hash mark?

The answer is:

Yes.

At least for D. I built the front with the B aligned with the 0 degrees.

[Alex]

Great job...

Originally Posted by GoldenRivet

looking forward to the turorials, no rush mate.

[TarJak]

Cheers hitman. Love your work!

[Puster Bill]

OK, here is my pitiful attempt at building Hitman's beautiful wheels:






Can't say it enough Hitman: Great job!

[jmr]

Man that looks awesome. Have you figured out how to use it fully yet?

[Hitman]

Really looks beautiful You built it 100% correctly (At least, 100% correctly to what I made it to be).

I have not yet built mine, now looking forward to doing it after seeing your beautiful job

[mr chris]

Puster Bill, That looks great
You can build mine any day. Im sure to bugger up the buliding process.

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by jmr

Man that looks awesome. Have you figured out how to use it fully yet?

I've figured out the back, it's basically just a circular slide rule.

As for the front, well, I'm still puzzling that out. I haven't had much time to play with it, as family comes first, especially on Mother's Day.

I have a few guesses as to how it MIGHT work, but at this point I am going to keep my own counsel, for fear of appearing as stupid as I actually am...:hmm:

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by Hitman

Really looks beautiful You built it 100% correctly (At least, 100% correctly to what I made it to be).

I have not yet built mine, now looking forward to doing it after seeing your beautiful job

Hey, all I did was put the damn thing together. You did all the artistic stuff.

[Puster Bill]

Originally Posted by mr chris

Puster Bill, That looks great
You can build mine any day. Im sure to bugger up the buliding process.

It isn't hard. Here are a couple of hints:

1. Laminate both sides of each wheel. This is important later on.

2. I use the self-sticking laminating sheets, which aren't as stiff as the thermal lamination. To prevent bubbles in the lamination, lay the laminating sheet sticky side up on a flat surface. Bend the piece being laminated into a gentle 'U' shape, but not so much that it takes a permanent cast. Place the bottom of the 'U' on the lamination first, then smoothly press it down from the center out to the edges.

4. I use push-pins for the pivot. You'll need 2 of them. Using a pair of pliers, pull the pin out of one of them. That will leave a 'socket' to receive the other pin. While the other pin still has the point on it, poke all of the holes in the center of the wheels and indicators individually. Once you have done that, tape the immoveable indicator transparencies to the proper wheels. Assemble all the pieces in order on the pin. Take a pair of wire cutters and trim a little bit of the pin, and test-fit the head of the push-pin you removed the pin from. Keep trimming the pin until it just holds the pieces closely, but not too tightly when fully pushed into the pinless push-pin. When you have it 'adjusted', put a little (just a little!) super-glue on the pin that protrudes above the wheels, and push the head of the push-pin back on.


5. I used regular Scotch tape to secure the pointers on the back of the wheels. Because you laminated the back, you can reposition them if necessary. The tape sticks to the lamination, but it can also be removed. It works better than any of the glues I tried.

6. To hold the backs of the two big wheels together, I used tape. I made 4 small flat 'rolls' of Scotch tape, and put them in between the wheels. You could also use double sided tape, or do like I did with the American Wheel, and just laminate the two big wheels together.

Good luck!

On Edit: Make sure you have good scissors, and take your time cutting out the pieces.

[Hitman]

Well, since I did the job I can't avoid the need of explaining it, even at the risk of looking as idiot , so here it goes briefly (Note: Since I speak german I actually read the small white lettering in the centre, where it gives some incomplete instructions):

1.- Put the exterior wheel with the 180º mark UP (Not down, as you would think)

2.- Align central wheel (Truecourse) with your true course in the white triangle below the 180 mark of the outer wheel.

3.- Move the transparent cursor for Peilung to align with the actual bearing to target. If the target is aligned to receive a shot from your bow tubes, point the part with the "Vorh. Bug" there, if it is aligned to receive a shot from the stern tube, point the "Vorh. Heck" there

4.- Now turn the inner wheel so it indicates the AOB of the target towards your ship. To do that, align the observed or estimated AOB with the transparent cursor for "Peilung"

5.- You can now read off the true course of the target in the true course wheel.

Now, my guess is that the transparent slider with the +60/-60 degrees serves both to get intercept course and enemy speed, confirm the track angle in narrow shots, and also to calculate the spread for multiple shots (Salvos), but it's just a rough guess. Probably when I have built the tool I will be able to tell better.

In Puster Bill's picture, the set-up would be as follows:

1.- Our U-Boot true course is 273

2.- The target has a bearing of either 118 degrees to our starbord side or 297 to our backbord side, depending on which side of the pointer you chose to use (For bow or stern tubes shot)

3.- The target's estimated AOB is either 88 port or 92 starbord, depending on the above

4.- The target's true course is as a result 113

Now, placing the the transparent slider with the +60/-60 degrees aligned in the middle between target's course and our bearing to the target would tell us the exact intercept course to the colision point between us. So changing our course to that new true course would bring us to colide with him (If keeping both UBoat and target had the same speed). This probably is used to start trying a match of speeds and thus get the target's speed via the backside of the ruler while heading to intercept it.