Steve's Models

[Sailor Steve]

Cool! Does it work?

[Sailor Steve]

I just discovered another really cool site for a maker of very rare models, all in 1/72 scale. Want to build George Cayley's 1853 "Coachman" glider? How about a Boeing 747 with a 3-foot (0.9m) wingspan?

They aren't cheap, though, and require a lot of work.
http://www.aim72.co.uk/

[Buddahaid]

Originally Posted by Sailor Steve

Cool! Does it work?

Oh yes. Press a button and the top rises out and it lights up.
http://s225.photobucket.com/user/sir...ml?sort=3&o=24

[Buddahaid]

Originally Posted by Sailor Steve

I just discovered another really cool site for a maker of very rare models, all in 1/72 scale. Want to build George Cayley's 1853 "Coachman" glider? How about a Boeing 747 with a 3-foot (0.9m) wingspan?

They aren't cheap, though, and require a lot of work.
http://www.aim72.co.uk/

Those are great! There's a new product called Glue Loopers that are great for gluing tiny parts wit CA.
http://militarymodels.co.nz/tag/the-glue-looper/

[Sailor Steve]

Those are nifty. I put a drop of glue in a plastic tray and then dip a thin piece of wire into it.

[Sailor Steve]

The next step was to mount the two upper anti-torpedo-boat gun decks, the round one at the front of the deckhouse and the sideways one across the rear roof of the deckhouse. Then I drilled a hole and mounted the funnel. After that was dry I put a coat of grey primer on and immediately noticed that the funnel was off-center. I drilled out the funnel, enlarged the hole and mounted a new funnel to the side of the hole, which put it on the centerline of the model. Then came another coat of paint.



I can see from the picture what I couldn't see even with the magnifier - that the whole thing is quite rough. I'll have to wait until tomorrow for the paint to completely dry, then start in with a very, very fine sandpaper. Then another coat of paint. Once it's smooth enough for my liking it will be time to make the casting mold.

Oh, and to give an idea of just how tiny it is, that's the 1/72 scale Bleriot behind it.

[Sailor Steve]

A bunch of sanding, a second paint test. Also behind is the mold box, ready to go when the model is.



Still a bit lumpy, but getting there. I keep having this argument with myself:

Me: "It's not ready! It needs more work!"

Self: "Do you have any idea how tiny that thing is? Nobody is going to notice those micro-size bumps."

Me: "But what if it comes out of the mold looking like that?"

Self: "Then you sand the resin models a little bit. Nobody is going to see them without a magnifier."

Me: "But if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?"

Self: "What is "right" when the thing is less than an inch long? It looks like the real one, doesn't it?"

Me: "Yeah, but I want it to be perfect."

Self: "Then spend the $30,000 for a laser cutter and a 3-D printer!"

Me: "You know I don't have that kind of money!"

Self: "Then quit whining and get the job done. Once you add the bits and pieces the models will look great! You have other things to do!"

Me: "But...but..." <whimper>

And so it goes.

[Sailor Steve]

I did a third paint test, and I'm still not completely satisfied. I decided to go ahead and make a mold. If I don't like the way the models come out I can always work on it some more.

Model is glued to the bottom of the mold box, silicone is mixed and poured into the box. I may not have mixed it well enough, but I won't know until it's completely cured, which takes anywhere from eight to eighteen hours, depending on how it's mixed. I'll check it from time to time, but it may be tomorrow before I know.

[Buddahaid]

I never seen silicone mold rubber in that color. Is that a 1:10 mix? That stuff is usually blue, or pink, takes 24 hours to cure, and is pretty flexible when cured. And is about $100.00 a gallon these days!

[Sailor Steve]

The silicone itself is white. The color comes from the catylist. The catylist that came with this kit is tan. The second batch I did is more of an off-white. Still cured the same, and in about 12 hours. The short cure time is probably due to the fact that the box is only 1" x 1/2" x 1/2".

[Sailor Steve]

The finished molds, ready for casting. While I was waiting for the first one to cure I took a model I had purchased for the purpose and converted it to represent the British Isis class cruisers from 1879, the first all-steel warships and the oldest ships I'm planning on doing in 1/2400.

[Sailor Steve]

I made a first casting of each, and the funnels didn't show up. I tried again, this time squashing the resin down into the holes with a stir stick, and it still didn't work.

The third time I shoved a piece of wire into the holes while it was setting, and here is the result:





As can be seen the forward funnel on the cruiser needs extra care, though I can always drill them out and make separate ones. Also the cruiser's gun turrets need the same wire-in-the-hole treatment. They set in less than ten minutes, so I can make as many as I need until they are all right.

[Buddahaid]

Originally Posted by Sailor Steve

The silicone itself is white. The color comes from the catylist. The catylist that came with this kit is tan. The second batch I did is more of an off-white. Still cured the same, and in about 12 hours. The short cure time is probably due to the fact that the box is only 1" x 1/2" x 1/2".

I know that I've just never seen that color in twenty years. You might try a dry film mold release agent to help tease the bubbles out of the stacks, or make the stacks longer next time. People usually create vent passages to allow the air to escape at trouble spots, but those are mostly two part molds. It's also advisable to wet down the mold with silicone lubricant for storage. The rubber will last much longer.

Also Lego blocks make excellent reusable mold boxes.

Here's an interesting one piece mold vac assist method.
http://s228.photobucket.com/user/DSt...03151.mp4.html

The part that was molded above.

[Sailor Steve]

Originally Posted by Buddahaid

You might try a dry film mold release agent to help tease the bubbles out of the stacks, or make the stacks longer next time.

Or I might just use the same plastic rod to make individual stacks. It's only one extra step since I'm already using brass wire for the masts.

Here's an interesting one piece mold vac assist method.

Cool.

On the other hand...

MAN THE GUNS! HERE BE MONSTERS!

[Jimbuna]

Your certainly getting there Steve