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mapuc 03-21-17 03:38 PM

I expect that we in the near future will see a huge sign on AVGWarhawk's CP or what they call it.

"No comments today, I'm cruising in my Buick. Will be back very very later folks"

Markus

vienna 03-21-17 05:39 PM

Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just get die-cast model cars?... :D



<O>

AVGWarhawk 03-21-17 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vienna (Post 2474140)
Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just get die-cast model cars?... :D



<O>

I have die cast as well. ��

Commander Wallace 03-21-17 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mapuc (Post 2474117)
I expect that we in the near future will see a huge sign on AVGWarhawk's CP or what they call it.

"No comments today, I'm cruising in my Buick. Will be back very very later folks"

Markus


:haha:

Buddahaid 03-21-17 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mapuc (Post 2474117)
I expect that we in the near future will see a huge sign on AVGWarhawk's CP or what they call it.

"No comments today, I'm cruising in my Buick. Will be back very very later folks"

Markus

They got holes in the sides like subs.

Reece 03-21-17 08:38 PM

Quote:

There is enough nickel content the metal is hard enough to withstand unleaded gas.
I would still use upper cylinder oil like Morey's in old lead cars, I don't have one now but I used to use an upper cylinder drip.:yep:

Commander Wallace 03-22-17 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reece (Post 2474174)
I would still use upper cylinder oil like Morey's in old lead cars, I don't have one now but I used to use an upper cylinder drip.:yep:


Either that or Marvel Mystery oil. In the oil, it helps clean the engine internally. Added to the fuel, it keeps the valves and combustion chamber from experiencing carbon buildup. Chris maintains his cars properly so he has less if anything to worry about. The only bad thing about Marvel in the fuel is that it has a detrimental effect on catalytic converters. The older cars that Chris has doesn't have to worry about that.

AVGWarhawk 03-22-17 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reece (Post 2474174)
I would still use upper cylinder oil like Morey's in old lead cars, I don't have one now but I used to use an upper cylinder drip.:yep:

I could use it as a precaution but the metallurgy of Buick heads does not really require it. I do run a cleaner for the valves through the fuel tank once in a while. By and large, the issues with the 264 nailhead were completely created by the rebuilder. Further, the thermostat installed let the engine run much to cool and allowed incomplete burn of fuels and other crap the previous owner was dumping in the tank. As you can see from the pictures, the carbon and oil in every cylinder looks like the La Brea Tar Pits. Since my repairs I driven the car 1000 miles. The piston rings have seated well. No oil loss. I pulled the plugs and all look as they should with complete burn of fuel. She pulls like a freight train.

AVGWarhawk 03-22-17 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commander Wallace (Post 2474221)
Either that or Marvel Mystery oil. In the oil, it helps clean the engine internally. Added to the fuel, it keeps the valves and combustion chamber from experiencing carbon buildup. Chris maintains his cars properly so he has less if anything to worry about. The only bad thing about Marvel in the fuel is that it has a detrimental effect on catalytic converters. The older cars that Chris has doesn't have to worry about that.

The nailhead 54-57 are wet valves. There are no valve stem seals. When starting the engine there is a puff of oil smoke which is inherent to the design. Buick added valve stem seals later. Marvels would be of some use here because these valves have been know to stick from sitting to long thus bending a push rod. Since I drive my cars once a week weather permitting I do not worry about stuck valves much. I do use Lucas Classic Car oil as it is rich in zinc that the tappets require. Zinc is all but removed from today's oils.

The upkeep of these older cars is fairly easy. The after market support is quite good for Buick and other manufacturers. It is growing every day. Plenty of clubs and folks with parts. There are a few parts we call "unobtainium" as you ain't going to find it, period.

I can say since driving these older vehicles I appreciate my daily driver much more. Sometimes driving the 54 is a chore and like wrestling a gorilla. Bias ply tires track and grab inconsistencies in the road. The 60 I just purchased is much more pleasurable to drive. The leaps and bounds of improvements in engineering from 54 to 60 is remarkable.

Commander Wallace 03-22-17 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVGWarhawk (Post 2474231)
The nailhead 54-57 are wet valves. There are no valve stem seals. When starting the engine there is a puff of oil smoke which is inherent to the design. Buick added valve stem seals later. Marvels would be of some use here because these valves have been know to stick from sitting to long thus bending a push rod. Since I drive my cars once a week weather permitting I do not worry about stuck valves much. I do use Lucas Classic Car oil as it is rich in zinc that the tappets require. Zinc is all but removed from today's oils.

The upkeep of these older cars is fairly easy. The after market support is quite good for Buick and other manufacturers. It is growing every day. Plenty of clubs and folks with parts. There are a few parts we call "unobtainium" as you ain't going to find it, period.

I can say since driving these older vehicles I appreciate my daily driver much more. Sometimes driving the 54 is a chore and like wrestling a gorilla. Bias ply tires track and grab inconsistencies in the road. The 60 I just purchased is much more pleasurable to drive. The leaps and bounds of improvements in engineering from 54 to 60 is remarkable.


The upkeep would be easier not having to deal with oxygen, map and other sensors or computers. Points, condensers and the like and you're good to go. I know guys with early 70's G.M classic vehicles and they upgraded the distributors to Hei systems. Silicon grease on the underside of the module once a year as part of routine maintenance and they are fool proof. One other thing with marvel, my understanding was it helped lubricate the valves in fuels without a lead content in older classic cars without hardened valve seats.

Modern cars today encompass incredible engineering. 300hp is now common in basic " grocery getter " vehicles. A friend's basic 2007 Ford Mustang with a 3.7 liter 6 cylinder engine pumps out 305 horsepower and gets an honest 30+ miles per gallon. With a tuned dual exhaust and the use of an X pipe, I'm sure it could get 35 MPG or better and increase the torque and flatten the curve. I have driven various sports cars and yet I know someone with a 2000 something Toyota Prius that will out turn and out handle most if not all of them if not outpower and outrun them . :doh: The newer cars may have the engineering but they rust out in a couple years and devalue faster than most people can make payments on them. The older cars like your 60 Buick have character and much nicer lines and don't look like a shoe box on 4 wheels either.

AVGWarhawk 03-22-17 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commander Wallace (Post 2474234)
The upkeep would be easier not having to deal with oxygen, map and other sensors or computers. Points, condensers and the like and you're good to go. I know guys with early 70's G.M classic vehicles and they upgraded the distributors to Hei systems. Silicon grease on the underside of the module once a year as part of routine maintenance and they are fool proof. One other thing with marvel, my understanding was it helped lubricate the valves in fuels without a lead content in older classic cars without hardened valve seats.

Modern cars today encompass incredible engineering. 300hp is now common in basic " grocery getter " vehicles. A friend's basic 2007 Ford Mustang with a 3.7 liter 6 cylinder engine pumps out 305 horsepower and gets an honest 30+ miles per gallon. With a tuned dual exhaust and the use of an X pipe, I'm sure it could get 35 MPG or better and increase the torque and flatten the curve. I have driven various sports cars and yet I know someone with a 2000 something Toyota Prius that will out turn and out handle most if not all of them if not outpower and outrun them . :doh: The newer cars may have the engineering but they rust out in a couple years and devalue faster than most people can make payments on them. The older cars like your 60 Buick have character and much nicer lines and don't look like a shoe box on 4 wheels either.

Reliability of today's vehicles is quite good. I worked on cars in the 1980's when O2, MAP, MAF, coolent sensors were in it's infancy. ROM computers with little more than a code chart and digital volt meter to diagnose and repair. Chilton manual at my side.

I was considering a Pertronix but the mixed reviews I chose not to change the ignition. I did not want to go to a complete HEI set up either. Originality is my desire. I have no issues with points. The Buick has never stranded me. Tow truck provided by Hagerty is but a phone call away.

I have not heard that Marvels helps with the unleaded gas issue. Lead additive are available. I do not much worry about the nailhead valve train and wear. Unless of course someone installs hardened seats. :doh:

Reece 03-22-17 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVGWarhawk (Post 2474228)
I pulled the plugs and all look as they should with complete burn of fuel. She pulls like a freight train.

Excellent news Chris! Should be good for another 150,000 mls.:up:


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